FRIDAY NIGHT VID: Stone Kingdom Ep. 4

by Duncan Campbell - UKC Apr/2014
This news story has been read 8,091 times

Tonight's Friday night video is episode 4 of Stone Kingdom from Outcrop Films. This episode features Mina Leslie-Wujastyk as she attempts to climb Unfamiliar, E7/8 6c, at Stanage, ground up (UKC News Report).

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+Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on her successful ground-up ascent of Unfamiliar E7/8 6c, 128 kb
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on her successful ground-up ascent of Unfamiliar E7/8 6c
UKC News, Nov 2013
© Outcrop Films

Nick Brown introduces this episode:

As I was basing a series on different climbing areas of the UK, I thought it would be appropriate to film at least one episode in the heart of it all; Stanage. The crag has enough to keep everyone happy, from beginners on the crag for the first time, to the most hardened gritstone wizards. Those that are sick of the crowds can go to the far end to find solitude and if you’re in need of extra pads for throwing yourself off classic highballs, Plantation is the place.

I checked out the crag in the morning and it was soaking. I called Mina and warned her off, saying Unfamiliar was out of action for the day. With an abundance of time on her hands, she headed up anyway. Dave begun to dry the route with a few towels and after a couple of hours it was good to go.

Some of you might be aware already; this was Mina’s first trad route. Therefore, a decision was made that she definitely wasn’t placing her own gear. Who cares? The real barrier to climbing this route is the lower crux section. A highball 7c/7c+ consisting of precarious foot placements and strange, specific handholds.

Mina had one session the previous week and made short work of the bottom section this time around. After a few attempts she reached the gear breathing heavily. When grit gets wet, it gets “scrittly”, meaning small bits of the rock from the outer layer rub off under your hands, almost making it feel sandy. Obviously, this isn’t ideal when it comes to secure hand and foot holds. But, you’ll have to watch the film to see what Mina thought about all that...

 


Forums ( Read More... | 17 comments, 12 Apr 2014 )
Watched this via the other channel last night and really enjoyed it. For me the climbing by numbers instructions were slightly distracting but not hugely so. Great effort, particularly at that wee sketchy moment near...
Fraser - 12 Apr 2014

All very good points, and I agree also with maisie about it the video being a nice contrast to the typical puff-pieces that are around. I also have no problem with people criticising either a video or an ascent, as...
Alun - 12 Apr 2014

In reply to simon cox and Martin/Maisie Absolutely spot on. A number of men have also climbed the route "ground up" and also had the gear placed on ab. Their reason - because "it was scary and pumpy...
Graham Hoey - 12 Apr 2014

Well, as it was his/her first post, then I've yet to make up my mind. About you, I've got a better understanding. Mina's a great climber, and my daughter is particularly looking forward to getting her poster, but...
maisie - 12 Apr 2014

I thought you were a little harsh on gh dg... from a "viewer" perspective the "being talked through every move" IS a little annoying and of course for a ground up ascent this type of guidance clearly...
simon cox - 12 Apr 2014

The talk from the ground was not beta, it was affirmation of what Mina already knew: SOOTHING affirmation, and that was the point. That was possibly the most human climbing video I have seen: a masterpiece in miniature.
ianbayman - 12 Apr 2014

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