Megos repeats Action directe, 9a, in two hoursby Björn Pohl - UKC May/2014
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Alex Megos has made the quickest repeat to date of Wolfgang Güllich's legendary 1991 test piece Action directe, 9a, at Waldfkopf, Frankenjura.
What's extraordinary is that he needed only two hours and a handful of attempts! Of course, he had watched videos of other repeats, but that's it.
Other 9a's have been done quicker, like for example Alex' own onsight of Estado Critico at Siurana, but Action directe is notorious for being very difficult to figure out quickly. The style, with almost only shallow one and two finger pockets, demands extreme accuracy. Well, that or super human strength I guess...
Doing both hard routes and hard boulder problems seems to have been the working formula as he recently returned from a short trip to Magic wood/Averstal where he managed to repeat things like Die unendliche Geschichte, 8B+, Riverbed, 8B, One summer in paradise, 8B, Steppenwulf, 8B, and Jack's broken heart<7i>, 8A+ flash.