VIDEO: What Has Ondra Ever Done On Grit? 3 E7 Onsights!

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor May/2014
This news story has been read 13,179 times

In the UK on a whirlwind tour for his sponsor La Sportiva, Adam Ondra - the Czech super climber - has had a day out on our famous gritstone edges, where he managed to onsight three E7 routes back to back, after nipping out early to Raven Tor to try Hubble (8c+/9a).

He had some very quick and unfortunately unsuccessful attempts on the limestone sport route of Hubble (8c+/9a)  and then onsighted Master's Edge (E7 6b), Messiah (E6/7 6c) and Balance It Is (E7 6c).

Here's the video: Adam Ondra hits the grit!

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+Adam Ondra onsighting Master's Edge, Millstone (E7 6b), 124 kb
Adam Ondra onsighting Master's Edge, Millstone (E7 6b)
UKC News, May 2014
© Lyon Equipment
Ondra was climbing with top UK climber and coach Neil Gresham (well done again Neil on the 8c last December!), who said this about Adam's visit:

"Adam came armed with a big ticklist, he knew what he wanted to do and I was impressed how much he knew all about the routes.

"Not only was his climbing super inspirational, particularly with all the pressure and expectation from onlookers, but he was a thoroughly likable and modest guy. It was inevitable that it would leak on Twitter that Adam Ondra tried Hubble during his 1-day visit to the Peak. To call it a quick play would be an understatement.

After a late slideshow in London on the Friday night, we arrived in Hathersage at 3am and were up at 5.30 to sneak in a 2 hour Raven tor hit before work duties commenced. It was raining, humid and warm and a crucial foothold required repeated drying. But in an absurd feat of 'interval style' redpointing, he hit the last hold 3 times in a row, with ten minute rests between burns.

Last time he visited the UK, his priority was his repeat of Overshadow 9a+ and this time it was sponsorship commitments. His eagerness to visit the tor against all odds sums up just how much he rates British climbing. Adam paid tribute to Hubble, confirming that it was 9a and similar in difficulty to Action Directe. In my opinion, he is one of the greatest ambassadors this sport has ever seen."

+Adam Ondra onsighting Messiah (E6/7 6c), 144 kb
Adam Ondra onsighting Messiah (E6/7 6c)
UKC News, May 2014
© Lyon Equipment
+Adam Ondra onsighting Balance it is (E7 6c), 90 kb
Adam Ondra onsighting Balance it is (E7 6c)
UKC News, May 2014
© Lyon Equipment

Ondra is no stranger to the UK, having previously climbed at Malham and Kilnsey (see our big Adam Ondra Interview) where he made ascents of most of the hard routes. He did try Hubble back in 2012 and suggested that it might be 9a (UKC News Item).

Feeling good after the grit, Adam decided to onsight a 9a in Spain - maybe he had a few pints of real ale in the Broadfield to get his strength up?!

 Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Entre-Prises, Hudy Sports, La Sportiva and Montura

Forums ( Read More... | 38 comments, 10 May 2014 )
You don't have to repeat a route to confirm the grade. If Ondra thinks Hubble is 9a, then it's 9a. He has done more routes of that grade and above than anyone else on the planet. His opinion counts. Yours doesn't. Andy...
andy farnell - 10 May 2014

Its also worth mentioning that he tried the route whilst it was wet. I think there is a black and white difference between "speculative" and "confirmed". If he confirmed the grade, he would have to...
owensum - 09 May 2014

If you read the article which accompanies the video, it does say he hit the last hold 3 times with 10 minutes rest between goes. So although he didn't actually finish the route, I'm pretty sure he's still in a better...
Mike Nolan - 09 May 2014

Hi Owen, remember meeting in Bishop? Hope you're well. I disagree with this myth that you can't hold an opinion on the grade until you've done a route. Looking at your profile for example, it says you've flashed v4...
Andy Reeve - 09 May 2014

If someone hasn't finished a route then their information is incomplete, but not nonexistent. If he's put as much effort in to it as he'd normally put in to successfully redpoint a 9a in a similar style but he still...
Ramblin dave - 09 May 2014

Interesting that he failed on a UK 8c+ (Hubble, for the third day) while on-sighting 9a in Spain. Yeah he had only 40 minutes but he'd been on it twice before and 8c+ is a grade he has regularly on-sighted now. Seems...
stp - 07 May 2014

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