Just before the WC at Grindelwald, Mélissa Le Nevé made the first female ascent of the first 8c in the world, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet at Krottenseer Turm, Frankenjura.
Mélissa says that this is the hardest 8c she has ever tried and that it took her a total of 10 days.
The difficulty of the route is all packed into a four meter section near the top. Up to this six move boulder problem, it's only 7b+ or so.
The boulder up there is super hard to quote. I figured out a new beta the last two days of trying to be able to link it.
Now after a lot of tries I can't fall anymore, but I found it so tricky. So precise... You have to be extremely precise.
This coming weekend, Mélissa along with around 155 other athletes competes in the Innsbruck WC.
Mélissa Le Nevé is sponsored by: adidas, Five Ten, Petzl and Freestone
French climber Mélissa le Nevé has ticked the classic Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura, Germany. This is her first route of the grade and the first female ascent of Wolfgang Güllich's famous line, which he climbed in 1991.
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