UKC

Jonathan Siegrist repeats Biographie, 9a+

© Adrian Ballinger
Jonathan Siegrist and Biographie  © Adrian Ballinger
Jonathan Siegrist and Biographie
© Adrian Ballinger

After a long fight, Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Chris Sharma's Biographie, 9a+, at Céüse, France.

After months of preparation and weeks of working the route he managed to make what I think is the 8th ascent.

Biographie was bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in the late 80s, but as it became clear no one could do it at the time, Arnauld Petit added a half way anchor some years later and made the first ascent of this shorter version.
Then in 2001, Chris Sharma managed to free the whole route, naming it Realization.

The half way anchor was later removed and now the full line is known as Biographie again.

I'm sure you'll all be able to read the full story on his blog.

Jonathan Siegrist is sponsored by Arc'teryx, Climb On, La Sportiva, Metolius, New England Ropes and Smith Optics


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2 Jun, 2014
I'm sure Sharma doesn't care but it seems a bit off changing the name back to Biographie, it sounds like it was always intended to go to the top so having the shorter versions name take precident doesn't make sense. Anyone want to make an attempt at listing the other 7 ascensionists?
2 Jun, 2014
Sharma, Patxi, Ramon, Dave Graham, Ethan Pringle, Enzo Oddo, Sylvain Millet. Not in that order. Is it sad that I didn't have to look that up?
2 Jun, 2014
Can't wait to watch the video (assuming there is one), love watching this guy climb.
2 Jun, 2014
I don't think so but you're probably asking the wrong person!
3 Jun, 2014
I rememebr reading that there had been a stir and that some of teh french climbing world were offended that Chris had renamed it. He wrote an article in response and added withiun it that he did not mind/it did not matter or some such thing and then the route was to be known as Biographie. I thought that Adam Ondra had climbing it hvaing gone for the flash but failing?
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