UKC

Tom Randall Climbs 8c+ Crack Link-Up

© Tom Randall Collection

Tom Randall has linked the Italian boulder problem crack traverse of Greenshadow in to the well known hard roof crack of Greenspit to give The Pura Pura at an estimated grade of 8c+.

Tom Randall on the lower boulder problem section of The Pura Pura - 8c+ Link-Up  © Tom Randall Collection
Tom Randall on the lower boulder problem section of The Pura Pura - 8c+ Link-Up
© Tom Randall Collection

Tom has a full write up on his blog, where he comments:

"The Pura Pura is not maybe what most people would envisage when they think of crack climbing, as in fact it’s a combination of hard boulder and hard route climbing. I supposed it was inspired by watching Dani Andrada in his Spanish caves contorting his way round impossible looking 9a+ link ups as a way of finding the hardest climbing possible."

"This project aims to link together two climbs of equal length, difficulty and steepness – The Greenshadow and Greenspit. You climb all of Green Shadow with a rope on and then immediately press on into the amazing roof of Greenspit, with the crux lying in wait right at the end. All in all it’s about 25m of extremely steep roof crack climbing and one that leaves your shoulders and core feeling like useless lumps of flesh hung on a skeleton." commented Tom on his blog.

Linking these two bits of climbing is, in Randall's words, "a complete endurance burl-fest", and with his repeats and first ascents of other desperate cracks, it's fair to say that he knows a thing or two about burliness.

This could be the hardest crack climb Randall has managed to date, but is just one of a pair of projects he had been trying over in Italy. The other, The Gondo Crack, hasn't yet succumbed. Whilst The Pura Pura is very steep, The Gondo Crack is more "bouldery and slightly overhanging" according to Tom.

You can read all about his efforts to date in his Gondo Crack Blog Post.

VIDEO TEASER: The Pura Pura - 8c+

Tom Randall is sponsored by: Climb On, Five Ten, Rab, Sterling Rope and Wild Country


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2 Jul, 2014
Burl-fest indeed. Love the name too!
2 Jul, 2014
I like the fact that a boulder problem combined with a trad route gets a sport grade. :-)
2 Jul, 2014
It's just a grade. Plenty of trad routes are graded with French grades all around the world.
2 Jul, 2014
Wasn't Grenspit originally a sport route, then Didier Bertholt (?)did it as a trad route? Edit: Greenspit.
2 Jul, 2014
Yes...
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