UKC

Ellis Butler-Barker Climbs 8c & Onsights 8b in Rodellar

© Tom Wright

Ellis climbing A Fisherman's Tale, 8b, Anstey's Cove  © Tom Wright
Ellis climbing A Fisherman's Tale, 8b, Anstey's Cove
© Tom Wright

Young, talented climber Ellis Butler-Barker (17) is currently out in Rodellar, Northern Spain and is climbing extremely well. He has redpointed his first 8c, Welcome to Tijuana, and proving that he is no slouch at onsighting he became the youngest Brit to onsight 8b with ascents of La Kanabica, Cuchills For Your Fingers and Alter Ego.

Ellis travelled out to Rodellar with aims to onsight 8a+ and redpoint 8c, and had been training by doing lots of hard link-ups at Anstey's Cove up to 8b+ (UKC News Item). After trying a couple of 8c's, Ellis eventually settled on the bouldery Welcome to Tijuana, which contrasted his training which he had focused on 40 metre stamina-fests.

After just a few sessions working the moves, Ellis felt ready to start redpointing, climbing the route on his third redpoint as he described:

"On my third go I climbed the route perfectly and exactly how I had imagined, this time I reached the last move feeling a little more fresh than last time. I threw for the last hold, caught it and clipped the chains! I'd just climbed my first 8c, I was so chuffed and also surprised to have climbed the route as quickly as I did!"

After surpassing his original aims by onsighting three 8a+'s, he began thinking about potential 8b's to onsight. After having a look at another 8c, he decided to try Cuchills For Your Fingers hoping for a quick redpoint. Ellis described how his first go up the route went:

"I got on the route and just kept going, move after move, every move felt hard but what could I expect from a short 17 meter 8b? Before I knew it the chains were in sight, I fought harder than I ever have on a route and somehow pulled myself up to the chains! I had done it! I couldn't believe it but it was done, my first 8b onsight."

Two days later Ellis onsighted his second 8b La Kanabica, and a day later yet another with Alter Ego, showing that he still has a fair way to go before he reaches his limit.

Ellis' ticklist for his trip so far is as follows:

  • A Cravita, 8a
  • Hagan Juego, 8a+ - onsight 
  • True Crime, 8a
  • Delocalisation, 8a - onsight
  • El Chorreos, 8b+
  • Todo Gas, 8b+
  • Wiskyri, 8a
  • La Piton, 8a+ - onsight
  • Gracias Fina, 8a - onsight
  • De Vuelta al Convento, 8a
  • Brumiastore, 8a
  • Cafe Largo, 8a+ - onsight
  • Welcome to Tijuana, 8c
  • Cuchills for your Fingers, 8b - onsight
  • Chupito de Barbie, 8a+ - onsight
  • Coliseum, 8a
  • El Sepes, 8a - onsight
  • Argo, 8a
  • Alter Ego, 8b - onsight
  • Pinza Time, 8a - onsight
  • Les Cadres Regenerent, 8a - onsight
  • Geminis, 8b+/c
  • Ambicion Cero, 8a - onsight
  • Fiesta Pagana, 8b

Ellis Butler-Barker is sponsored by: Five Ten and Mammut

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I grew up with a background in sport, competing in gymnastics and then rugby from an early age. I got into climbing when I was around 14 or 15. Straight away I knew that I was in love with the sport, I bought some shoes...

Ellis's Athlete Page 16 posts 1 video



23 Jul, 2014
Good effort Ellis, but two corrections: - Ellis is 18 - I believe one of the 8b onsights is actually called "Cuchills for your Fingers"
23 Jul, 2014
welcome to tijuana is no soft touch either...
23 Jul, 2014
Two points: -Ellis is 18 now but was 17 for the first half of the trip. -The first 8b which Ellis onsighted is called "Cuchills for your Finguers" and not what EdGS, so the information in the article is correct:)
23 Jul, 2014
Are you sure about the name of the route? These websites seem to think it is indeed "Cuchills for your Fingers" and not "Chuchills for your Finguers": http://wildmonkeyclimbing.com/rodellar/ http://www.climb.sk/crag/show/25 http://wspinanie.pl/2012/07/ciag-dalszy-rehabilitacji-mateusz-haladaj-w-hiszpanii/
23 Jul, 2014
Charlotte, its 'Cuchills for your Fingers'. So EdGs is correct.
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