VIDEO: Reclimbing the classics #5 - Grand Illusion

by Björn Pohl - UKC Jul/2014
This news story has been read 6,114 times

Toni Yaniro talks about his 1979 ground breaking first ascent of Grand Illusion, 8a, at Lake Tahoe, CA.

13 year old Mirko Caballero gets to learn about what the ethics were like back in the day and practice his crack climbing skills.

The Mammut reclimbing the classics series is sponsored by: Mammut

Forums ( Read More... | 13 comments, 29 Jul 2014 )
I think the ethics question is irrelevant. Someone obviously made the decision to pre-place the gear or he fall on the gear and pulled his rope or he pink pointed it. Who cares? The route is F-ing awesome looking on...
Nic_Sandy - 29 Jul 2014

Yeah. Theres some discussion about this over on supertopo. This is a total guess, but Mirko (who Ive met) is a sport climber and boulderer primarily. Therefore I think it would be most likely he would work it in...
owensum - 25 Jul 2014

Tony confesses to trying a move before lowering off, but not to hanging on the gear and then carrying on and placing the next piece and repeating this to the top. Mirko may well have lowered off immediately after each...
GeoffRadcliffe - 25 Jul 2014

It's interesting to hear Tony Yaniro's view on the ethics of crack climbing on trad. It would be interesting to compare and contrast Mirko's style of ascent with Tony's. However, it is not clear what style of ascent was...
GeoffRadcliffe - 25 Jul 2014

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