Hugo Meignan on Staphylocoque, 9a/+, Pic Saint Loup, France
Björn Pohl - UKC, Aug 2014
© Lucas Meignan
Hugo Meignan, who recently climbed Moksha, his first 9a, has now made the 3rd ascent of Cédric Lachat's Staphylocoque, 9a/+, at Pic Saint Loup, France.
In the euphoria of my first 9a Moksha, I decided to try the next route Staphylocoque directly.
This route combines the Moksha beginning and the end of a project called Kmira (unrealized). Staphylocoque was first climbed by Cédric Lachat this year and then repeated by Sébastien Bouin recently, giving an estimated 9a/9a+.
Knowing the first part of the route (early Moksha) I climbed through the route five times to calibrate the methods before I could begin making redpoint attempts.
The route consists of a first section through a large concretions overhang, a first crux crossing on very small pinches with, a less difficult section before the 2nd crux on a series of small underclings before the final smooth section.
After a few attempts where I wasn't able to reach the 2nd crux of the route due to difficulties finding a knee [bar?] in the sequence, finally on the third day of climbing, much to my surprise and with a super fight, I managed to climb this beautiful route.
I would like to thank Frédéric Ferarro for route equipment, Sébastien Bouin for methods, my brother Thoma Meignan and Geoffray De Flaugergue for emulation and encouragement.