Staphylocoque, 9a/+, by Hugo Meignanby Björn Pohl - UKC Aug/2014
This news story has been read 3,773 times
Hugo Meignan, who recently climbed Moksha, his first 9a, has now made the 3rd ascent of Cédric Lachat's Staphylocoque, 9a/+, at Pic Saint Loup, France.
In the euphoria of my first 9a Moksha, I decided to try the next route Staphylocoque directly.
This route combines the Moksha beginning and the end of a project called Kmira (unrealized). Staphylocoque was first climbed by Cédric Lachat this year and then repeated by Sébastien Bouin recently, giving an estimated 9a/9a+.
Knowing the first part of the route (early Moksha) I climbed through the route five times to calibrate the methods before I could begin making redpoint attempts.
The route consists of a first section through a large concretions overhang, a first crux crossing on very small pinches with, a less difficult section before the 2nd crux on a series of small underclings before the final smooth section.
After a few attempts where I wasn't able to reach the 2nd crux of the route due to difficulties finding a knee [bar?] in the sequence, finally on the third day of climbing, much to my surprise and with a super fight, I managed to climb this beautiful route.
I would like to thank Frédéric Ferarro for route equipment, Sébastien Bouin for methods, my brother Thoma Meignan and Geoffray De Flaugergue for emulation and encouragement.
This week's Friday Nighter is from . Here's what they say: "This harrowing expedition pushed a group of... Read more
Late in the season, when temperature and humidity perhaps shouldn't really allow it, Dave Graham has made the second... Read more
Hot on Alex Megos' heels, Jakob Schubert has made the 3rd ascent of Adam Ondra's Thor's hammer, 9a+, in the Flatanger... Read more
Hugo Meignan (18) and Geoffray Deflaugergues (19) have both repeated Gérôme Pouvreau's Moksha, 9a, at Pic St. Loup,... Read more
In this rather excellent video by Julien Nadiras we get to see Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat climb two stellar lines... Read more