NEWSFLASH: First British 8c for Emma Twyford

by Duncan Campbell - UKC Aug/2014
This news story has been read 8,407 times

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+Emma Twyford flashing Statement of Youth, 197 kb
Emma Twyford flashing Statement of Youth
UKC News, Jun 2011
© Jon Butters

Yesterday Emma Twyford climbed Unjustified at Malham Cove in Yorkshire, becoming the first British woman to climb 8c on British soil, and the second British woman to climb 8c ever.

Emma has been attempting Unjustified seriously for the last few weeks, having tried it in previous years but never quite getting it done. Two weeks ago Emma headed to Malham with James McHaffie and made good progress, climbing the route in two halves.

This boosted Emma's motivation and she began making regular trips to Malham from her home in North Wales. This persistence was rewarded with her clipping the chains yesterday on her first 8c.

Emma is on excellent form right now having just flashed her second E7; Bucket Dynasty at Dove Crag (UKC News Report). Emma is the second British woman to climb 8c after Hazel Findlay climbed Fish Eye at Oliana earlier this year (UKC News Report + Interview).

We will bring you more information once we have it.


Emma Twyford is sponsored by: DMM, Five Ten and Rab


Forums ( Read More... | 24 comments, 14 Aug 2014 )
I always though that UKC just read the UKB Significant Repeats thread for all of their UK news. Obviously not, otherwise they'd have reported this days ago and the whole 8b+ or 8c thing would never have reared it's ugly...
Dinger - 14 Aug 2014

No axe to grind with Emma, it's an amazing ascent and one of the very hardest routes done by a British women. When it comes to history though the media need to be more honest and be a bit more considered. It doesn't...
hankypanky - 14 Aug 2014

Its an interesting point, however not completely fair I for one only became aware of the change in opinion about the grade in the last month. I would imagine the fact that the 8b+ grade is only going into the NEW...
3 Names - 14 Aug 2014

If you search the old news reports on UKC for Unjustified ascents here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/general/search.html?cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&cx=012320157739014986830%3Azyxmlwsazli&q=unjustified&sa.x=3&sa.y=9 then...
switch - 14 Aug 2014

Mr Hankypanky's point doesn't seem unreasonable; if the route is generally considered 8b+ by lots who have done it, then fair enough. But when that's said by some one using a recently set up anonymous name, it always...
TobyA - 14 Aug 2014

A potted history to add a little colour to your statement: The route was first climbed by Nic Sellars in the early 90's using a sika hold on the crux section (which was declared as 'blank' in an early OTE). It was...
andy farnell - 14 Aug 2014

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