NEWSFLASH: James Pearson Flashes Pembroke E9
by Duncan Campbell - UKC 04/Sep/2014
This news story has been read 5,544 times
On Tuesday 2nd September, James Pearson made a flashed ascent of Charlie Woodburn's Something's Burning, E9 7a, in Stennis Ford, Pembroke. This is potentially the first flash of a route of this grade, certainly away from the grit.
The news was broken on James' facebook page:
James was given very detailed beta for the moves and gear on the route by his wife and climbing partner, Caroline Ciavaldini, allowing him to climb the route on his first try, giving him his first E9 flash and the first E9 flash to date.
Something's Burning was first climbed by Charlie Woodburn in 2012 with the route giving sustained and bold climbing at a difficulty of around 8a+/b protected by small wires (UKC News Report).
You can watch a video of Charlie making the first ascent below:
James Pearson is sponsored by: Adidas Eyewear, La Sportiva, The North Face and Wild Country
| Forums ( Read More... | 26 comments, 05 Sep 2014 )|
|There's a perfectly good reason, being that Flash itself originated to denote a no-falls ascent. This was then further refined into Onsight Flash and Beta Flash, depending on prior knowledge. The part that makes it...|
john arran - 05 Sep 2014
"Onsight flash" is not thing. "Beta flash" is a flash with the word beta added for no apparent reason. As said above, "Flash = pre-knowledge of the route. Onsight = no pre-knowledge of the...
ColmShannon88 - 05 Sep 2014
Stunning effort. I get the impression he has in the past sent his rather talented girlfriend down on a rope to work all the moves and give him all the beta then he goes forth armed with said knowledge and dispatches the...
The Grist - 04 Sep 2014
|If its a flash you're going for don't piss about, get all the info you can. Too many onsights are claimed after gaining beta. As far as flashes go this is pretty amazing If its a flash you're going for don't piss...|
nolan - 04 Sep 2014
Yep. James and Caro seem to have taken it to a slightly more advanced and detailed level than just your mate telling you that the crux is tricky but there's a bomber thread to protect it and the top slab is a bit necky...
Ramblin dave - 04 Sep 2014
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