© Michal Kwiatwkowski
Aleksandra 'Ola' Taistra has repeated Humildes på Casa, ~8b+, and Nina Gmiter has done Fish eye, both at Oliana, while Sasha Digiulian has made the first female ascent of Thanatopsis, 8b+, at the Motherload in Kentucky's Red River Gorge.
Humildes på casa is a famous tufa route which used to be graded ~8c, but after a while it was agreed it was probably more 8b+. It has been onsighted by Chris Sharma, Maja Vidmar and possibly more.
Aleks said: I didn't really plan to climb it, but I arrived in Oliana quite tired and not feeling fit. This route is pumpy and knacky, and seemed like a good training ground. It can also be a bit scary! The temps were high but I was trying it regardless just to regain my fitness. It might be back now, haha.
Aleks Taistra is an experienced coach and at the moment in Spain is accompanied by her friend and one of the athletes she mentors, Nina Gmiter. As soon as the conditions improved and Aleks her route, Nina managed her first 8c, Fish Eye, previously also climbed by Taistra. Now with colder temps they are planning on trying more hard projects.
In the Red River Gorge, at the impressive Motherload crag, Sasha Digiulian made quick work of the very crimpy Thanatopsis, ~8b+. This David Hume route takes a seemingly blank line quite a bit left of the famous Madness Cave.
This one also used to be given 8c, but like soooo many other routes, it has been downgraded.
Sasha Digiulian has several sponsors including: Entre-Prises, Five Ten, GoPro, Petzl, Red Bull and adidas
Aleksandra Taistra is supported by La Sportiva and Mammut.
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