A new mid-grade, 160-metre multi-pitch route that starts at the bottom of Twll Mawr has become the longest sport climb in the UK. However, first ascensionists Harold Walmsley and Colin Struthers seem unable to agree on a name for the line, currently listed as Long in the Twll/The North will Rise Again (6c+) and graded at 6c.
The route's name sparked an open argument in the forums between the two climbers who made the first ascent, and a SurveyMonkey poll was created by a UKC contributor to help settle the dispute in a more democratic manner. Out of 83 participants, Long in the Twll was a clear 'winner' with 62.65% of the vote. No comment has been issued as yet by the climbers.
© harold walmsley, Dec 2014
Taking the "Longest Sport Route in the UK" crown from nearby climb The Desolation of Smaug! (6c), it follows The Rock Bottom Line (7b+) for one pitch then breaks outright to climb slabs and walls between Opening Gambit (XS) and Hamadryad (E3 5c), before crossing Hamadryad to finish up the rib on its right.
The route is described as follows in the UKC Logbook entry: "The climbing is continually interesting but there are areas of friable holds on P2 and P3. The most sustained sequences are on P2 and P3 but the more broken-looking ground above actually gives good puzzling moves on rock that is substantially more difficult than appearances suggest."
All pitches are fully bolted and the stances have 2-bolt belays.
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