UKC

Two 9a's in a day by Megos

© Arnaud Petit

After three years Alex Megos is back in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. As is his habit, he does what he does best i.e climb 9a's.

Southern smoke direct was put up by Adam Taylor in November 2011 and originally 5.15a/9a+ was suggested. One year later, Adam Ondra made the second ascent. He managed to flash it and said it was "definitely 9a". The route has also been repeated by Daniel Woods, Cedric Lachat, Brad Weaver and Stefano Ghisolfi in.

Enter Alex Megos: 

First day back in the ‪Red River Gorge‬ after 3 years! FINALLY did "Southern Smoke Direct" 5.14d (9a) today after failing on it 3 years ago. As well did a project(?!) to the left of "50 Words for Pump" which I would say is as well around 5.14d (9a).

Stay tuned for more as he still has one week left in the States! 

Here's a video featuring Adam's flash ascent.


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Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

Alex's Athlete Page 92 posts 12 videos



23 Oct, 2015
Great footage on the video, horrible editing. Couldn't watch it to the end it was so annoying. In reply to UKC News:
24 Oct, 2015
Whilst undoubtedly very impressive since he tried one of the routes 3 years ago, that particular route took more than a day to do. So the title here is msleading. So yeah, I see he redpointed both routes on the same day but doing "two in a day" would normally mean that he hadn't tried either before.
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