UKC

New E8 for James McHaffie on Anglesey

© Nick Brown

James McHaffie has made the most of an interlude between bouts of bad weather by establishing a new E8 6c named The Gravity Wave at the steep  Trearddur Bay - AKA The Face of Adversity - on Anglesey. The route follows a counter-diagonal line to Chicama (E9 6c) E9 6c.

photo
James on The Treacherous Underfoot E7 at Trearddur Bay in 2008

Whilst making the third ascent of Chicama in 2009, James scoped out a line trending rightwards from the existing route. The Gravity Wave begins below the The Crow Road E7 and sweeps rightwards, sharing a rest position with Chicama. The crux is situated in the first half, but the remaining climbing is bold with poor cam placements.

Commenting on the grade, James told his sponsor, DMM: “It’s probably a bit easier than Chicama and around 7c+ in technical difficulty. It’s great climbing on nice holds but it’d be a hard one to onsight.”

Read more in DMM's report.

James is sponsored by: Boreal, DMM, Rab, Sterling Rope and is a BMC Ambassador.


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16 Feb, 2016
Amazing, looks really wild from the other pictures around. What's the deal with pegs on this route? I know a large amount were replaced on Chicama before Hazel Findlay's ascent
16 Feb, 2016
Good skillz Caff and Mase. The photo's caption should read either The Treacherous Underfoot E7 or just Treacherous Underfoot E7 I think... though don't have a guide to hand to say for sure. But I'm fairly certain its called one of those two names.
16 Feb, 2016
Well done , what an effort considering the lack of weather gap we have had up this end couple of days if that?
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