UKC

Sisu Masters 2016Video

© Björn Pohl

Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem in the Sisu Masters 2016  © Björn Pohl
Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem in the Sisu Masters 2016
© Björn Pohl
Six World class climbers set one problem each, work them for an hour or so, and then compete on them two days later - that's the Sisu Masters in Helsinki, Finland.

This year's edition featured three Americans;

Jimmy Webb

Daniel Woods

Dave Graham

and three local heroes;

Nalle Hukkataival

Andy Gullsten

Ilari Kelloniemi

As the athletes could set pretty much what they felt like, the result was six very different problems which each suited the setter's particular style. In terms of difficulty, most of them probably weighed in around the ~8A mark, with Jimmy's and Nalle's perhaps being a tad harder than that.

The video below shows most of the action.

And here is the full replay

While in Finland, the guys couldn't resist (not that they tried very hard) to sample some of the local rock. As reported previously, Jimmy, who spent more than a week in Helsinki, managed to make super impressive flash of The Globalist, ~8B+, at Sipoo, but he also tried Nalle's long time project at Lappnor.

After quickly realizing Nalle's method would never work for him, he found a foothold far to the right, which made the problem slightly more possible. In fact, this new hold changed Nalle's method somewhat as well.

Daniel Woods on the Lappnor project, Lappnor, Finland  © Jimmy Webb/Björn Pohl
Daniel Woods on the Lappnor project, Lappnor, Finland
© Jimmy Webb/Björn Pohl

What makes the Lappnor project next level hard is not so much the steepness of the wall and the size of the holds. It's more about the lack of friction which forces you to keep very close to the wall which in turn makes the slick foot holds feel even worse than they would otherwise be. It's a short very pure power problem.

Daniel also tried the project briefly and although it's a style that he really masters, he agreed that this thing is harder than anything he had tried. Not impossible mind you, but really, really hard.

While in Finland I seized the opportunity and made two new podcasts. One with Daniel & Dave and one with Jimmy, so in the not so distant future you can hear all about the Finnish experience and more if you feel like it.


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7 Apr, 2016
In the pic it says: Jimmy Webb on Nalle Hukkataival's problem. I thought that was Dave Graham's problem at the end. It was also the only problem that Graham almost managed to complete, so it would be surprising if it was Nalle's problem rather than his own? Interesting comp format. Do the Finns challenge a different country each year? I felt a bit sorry for Dave Graham. The other guys just seemed a lot stronger. And how long before the Lappnor Project goes down I wonder? Look forward to the interviews though.
8 Apr, 2016
I'm not 100% certain but I don't think it has been done every year. There was one when I still lived in Helsinki, 2013, but not sure if they have done them since. Anyway, that was by invite and I think the idea was it was Nalle's hard friends. I guess a lot will ride on who they can afford to invite.
8 Apr, 2016
This was the second edition of the Sisu Masters. In 2013 the athletes were: Nalle Hukkataival, Kilian Fischhuber, Andy Gullsten, Dave Graham Anna Stöhr, Anna Laitinen, Melissa Le Nevé, Eevi Jaakkola The format is not 100% set in stone as it's mostly about creating a nice "bouldering jam" and the US vs. Finland happened more or less by coincidence.
8 Apr, 2016
That's a bit harsh, maybe he's just getting older and it's becoming increasingly hard for him to maintain the level of difficulty that he'd achieved. The guy has put up a lot of FAs including several 8Cs.
8 Apr, 2016
My impression is that DanGreb is right. In a recent interview Graham was laughing off how useless Daniel Woods' beta was for him because he's just that much stronger. This is not to say he's not a brilliant climber and compared to most he's still very strong. But when amongst some of the strongest boulderers in the world he's just not in the same league. I thought Nalle looked like the strongest in this comp. Where Graham used a bunch of tricky looking sequences and knee bars I was astonished to watch Nalle drop down on to the sloper and basically campus that section. That really highlights the difference I think.
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