UKC

Geocache, 9a+, repeated by Ondra

© Claudia Ziegler

Alex Megos on Geocache, ~9, Frankenjura  © Claudia Ziegler
Alex Megos on Geocache, ~9, Frankenjura
© Claudia Ziegler

According to his 8a-scorecard, Adam Ondra has repeated Alex Megos' Geocache, 9a+. at the Vogelherdgrotte in the Frankenjura. It's a rather short route of around 15m with a strange crux.

Alex made the first ascent in the autumn of 2014 and commented that the route was "not really hard, just a bit strange". He thought he would do it in three goes, but in the end he needed 43. When he did it it felt like I expected it to feel in my 3rd go, only that it happened in my 43rd go and not in the 3rd...

Eventually, he decided 9a+ could be appropriate. 

Adam agrees it's a very difficult one to grade, but yeah, 9a+ could be alright, although he did it in a day. He also says being taller could make it marginally easier.

Oh, and now that I see it's out elsewhere, I can tell you Adam Ondra is planning to try the free Dawn Wall from mid October this year. Unfortunately a flash attempt is out of the question as he has to replace the bolts on the hardest pitches. Apparently someone chopped them...

Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Entre-Prises, KIKU, Hudy Sports, La Sportiva and Montura​


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26 May, 2016
Surely the news here is: 1. dawn wall bolts chopped, and 2. ondra plans to climb dawn wall A bit more interesting than a 9a+ repeat. And why can't he get someone else to replace the bolts, and then go for the flash?
26 May, 2016
Googled for a source and found this on reddit from a year ago: Crazy if true! Also I agree, I don't know why Ondra can't pay someone to replace the bolts and go for the flash himself.
26 May, 2016
what he said
27 May, 2016
Surely actually climbing something is more newsworthy than chopping bolts or thinking about climbing. Geocache is not just another 9a. It's always seemed a bit of an enigma given the fact it took Megos 5 days. And besides 9a+ is still newsworthy. Only a handful of people have climbed harder. Done in a day is even more exceptional.
27 May, 2016
I climb way more routes than I chop ;) You might be right about this route & 9a+ in general though.
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