UKC

Salamandre, 9a+, repeated

© Etienne Seppecher

Baptiste Dherbilly on Salamandre, 9a+, at the Double Cache crag, Haute-Savoie, France.  © Etienne Seppecher
Baptiste Dherbilly on Salamandre, 9a+, at the Double Cache crag, Haute-Savoie, France.
© Etienne Seppecher
Baptiste Dherbilly has repeated Fred Rouhling's Salamandre, 9a+, at the Double Cache crag, Haute-Savoie, France. Very few of Fred's hard routes have been repeated and this is only the second of of his 9a's or harder to get a second ascent.

Fred Rouhling is the man behind routes like Akira, 9b (1995), Empreintes, 9a+, De l'autre côté du ciel, 9a, Mandallaz drive, 9a, and Hugh, 9a, where only Hugh have seen a few repeats.

Salamandre can be descibed as an 8a section into an ~8A+/B crux followed by an 8b+ section. The hardest single move is a dyno from a shallow mono to a two finger gaston pocket where you have to get the pocket exactly right to be able to stay on.

Fanatic Climbing managed to get hold of Baptiste for a comment:

I have been there 17 times in the last two months which represents around 50 tries. For the grade I don't want to talk about it because I haven't the experience to give my opinion on it. Fred had announced 9a/b, and after talking with him he thought 9a+.

Until now, I had repeated as hard routes 'Ordalie' a route from Fred 8c+ and I did two first ascent which need to be confirmed. Both are around 8c/8c+ , one is 'XV station' in Jourdy and the other one is 'Entre rêve et réalité' in La Forclaz. So I have not really references in this level. That's why I do not pronounce myself. All I know is the most difficult route I climbed.

He also says that the route, which was bolted by François Ducastel, is completely natural.


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28 Oct, 2017
This is great stuff!!! Fred was right at the bleeding edge of hard climbing, and it's ace to see someone doing his routes! :-)
28 Oct, 2017
I really admire the guy's honesty regarding the grade of the route. Seems like all these routes need to get repeated by climbers who are more familiar with this level of difficulty before the grades can be properly established. Even Rouhling has very limited experience of routes of this grade. Of established routes I think he's done Bain de Sang at 8c+/9a but that sounds like a very specialised kind of route anyway. Dai Komada repeated one of Fred's routes but I don't know what, if anything, he had to say about it.
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