The second round of the 2018 IFSC Boulder World Cup series took place in Moscow, Russia this weekend alongside the first round of the Speed World Cup. A mix of old school setting and dynamic moves resulted in an exciting final, even if the problems for the women were perhaps slightly too easy.
© IFSC/Eddie Fowke
Results below highlights video (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2018
Slovenia and Japan ruled the round, with each team earning a Gold, Silver and Bronze medal across the two categories. Janja Garnbret appeared on top form throughout the competition and took Gold ahead of Miho Nonaka. Tomoa Narasaki returned to the top of the podium, whilst Gregor Vezonik earned his first IFSC Boulder World Cup medal in his first ever final, finishing 3rd behind teammate Jernej Kruder.
Team GB's Shauna Coxsey placed 6th once again after making finals. She commented on Instagram: 'I am really looking forward to spending some time training now. I knew I wasn't back to full fitness but I am very glad I got to get out there and battle on the wall.'
The next round is in Chongqing, China on 4th May.
Full finals replay below:
Comments
With Janja not going to China it looks like it could be Miho's year for the overall.
What's the word on the street as to why Shauna isn't going to China?
China would require being on the road away from home for a while with her injury. Given that she looks like she’s operating at 60% and still making finals, I would imagine Shauna will most likely prioritise training for a peak in performance for the World Championships at Innsbruck in September.
Seriously impressive how Janja has moved so seamlessly from dominating in Lead, to apparently dominating in Boulder.
I wonder if the physical requirements for both IFSC disciplines are really all that different these days.
In some ways the repeated 4/5 minute efforts of bouldering look to have a bigger endurance requirement than the single 6 minute lead efforts. Hence the same competitors can climb at similarly high levels in both competitions.
There's certainly crossover, but it's hard to see how to differentiate them more.
Given that *actual* cutting edge bouldering these days involves falling off the same five moves over & over again in a dank forest in Finland over a period of multiple years, I struggle to see how it could be made into a thrilling spectator sport.