The fifth round of the 2018 IFSC Boulder World Cup series took place in Hachioji, Japan last weekend. In what was perhaps the most exciting round so far, technical routesetting, a large crowd and innovative projected graphics on the wall showed that Tokyo is ready for the 2020 Olympic Games. Michaela Tracy and Shauna Coxsey narrowly missed out on finals, finishing in 8th and 9th respectively, and Billy Ridal made semi-finals and achieved his best placing yet - 14th.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Results below highlights and finals videos (don't scroll if you don't want to know!!)
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Hachioji (JPN) 2018
The Japanese team entered a total of 21 climbers into their home round, 11 of whom made the top 20. Akiyo Noguchi continued her top form by flashing every problem in the semis and flashing problem 4 in the final to take the win. Problem 3 was the only problem in the entire competition that Noguchi didn't top. Miho Nonaka (JPN) took 2nd place and Ekaterina Kipriianova (RUS) won her first IFSC Boulder World Cup medal.
Italy's Gabriele Moroni is somewhat of a veteran of the IFSC circuit, having started competing in 2004. After 14 years, he finally won his first IFSC Boulder World Cup in Hachioji - and convincingly so. In order to beat Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), he needed to reach the zone. Not only did he manage this, but he continued to fight his way up the boulder to match the finishing hold on his flash attempt. 'I've been waiting for this moment my whole career!' he told the IFSC. Rei Sugimoto (JPN) finished 3rd in front of a home crowd.
Comments
A great comp, and Percy Bishton's final IFSC event apparently. Great co-commenting from Percy in the semis and Alex Khazanov in the men's final.
Looks like Akiyo is back in top form this year, the way she was a few years ago, but now with less competition. Impressive all round, particularly in the semi-final.
Surprised Shauna didn't place higher. Messing about on lumps of rock is obviously a poor substitute for the real thing.
The men's final was another really good one. Despite the lack of ascents it worked really well with that spectacular finish. Fantastic effort by both Tomoa and Gabri on the final problem.
Rarely post on here but that was the best men's final I've seen. Definitely worth a watch but maybe not the same after reading the spoiler.