UKC

New Font 8B+ in Parisella's Cave for Jack Palmieri

© Jack Palmieri

Jack Palmieri has climbed a new Font 8B+ in Parisella's Cave which he has named The Hatchlink (f8B+). It's the first problem which climbs from a sit-start at the back of the cave all the way to the lip. It does so by linking Hatchatocity into No match for climb id:87858,"Halfway House" and ultimately No match for climb id:87865,"Trigger Cut".

Technically, Jack has been attempting this problem the day he started climbing in the Cave, as he did the middle problem (Rock Atrocity (f7C)) on his first visit. Although in terms of actual attempts of the full line, he has had around 10 this year: 'I have however done all the component parts more times than I care to admit and anyone that thinks it all comes really easy to me is kidding themselves, I've put a lifetimes worth of effort in at the venue over the last three years or so since I first climbed there.'

Jack climbed No match for climb id:87847,"Pilgrimage" in 2017 which takes in the full cave diagonally but skirts into easier ground at the end. The Hatchlink finishes right up the centre: 'In my opinion, it's easily one of the best few problems in the cave.

'The climbing is very gymnastic in style with lots of cutting loose and holding swings, the way I climbed it anyway. It's very sustained with the last short boulder problem Trigger Cut being in a lot of people's eyes a few move 8A. Not being as fit as many people may think I really just concentrate on covering ground quickly on the steep terrain and hopefully being stronger than the actual problem.'

Jack Palmieri on Pilgrimage 8B+.  © Eddie Fowke/The Circuit Climbing Magazine
Jack Palmieri on Pilgrimage 8B+.
© Eddie Fowke/The Circuit Climbing Magazine

Jack has been on top form recently and has split his time between Parisella's Cave and The Bowderstone. In mid-February, Jack climbed some other new links in the Cave; the first called Incredible Sulk (f8B), which starts up Lou Ferrino (V10), climbs down Rock Atrocity (f7C) and finishes up Cave Life (V11). The other he called No match for climb id:514788,"A Familiar Atrocity", which links Rock Atrocity into Trigger Cut and finishes up No match for climb id:400070,"Almost Familiar" for a grade of F8c+ . On The Bowderstone, he's been ticking away at the classics and by the looks of his logbook has managed nearly all of them...

Jack climbing Silk Cut (V14) in 2018:

The big question is: are there still climbs for Jack in the Cave?

'There are still a quite a lot of undone link-ups in the cave but only a few of really good quality. There are also a couple of unrepeated Pete Robins problems which I've been very close on in recent weeks thwarted only by wet final holds. In October last year I got the second ascent of incredible bulk nearly ten years after Pete did it, it was only graded 7C+ but had seen off many a strong climber in the near decade since it was done. If I could finish off the sit start to that at some point this year I'd be made up.

'I don't believe it'll ever be climbed out, although the logical lines are close to being completed.'


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1 Mar, 2019

Great videos there.

Makes me laugh that the lads n lasses are climbing in what once was my & Jerry's bedroom.....

2 Mar, 2019

I think he missed the lip, another metre and he's got it.

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