UKC

Festival of Climbing

The BMC / Enterprise Festival of Climbing was held in Birmingham at the weekend.

The International Masters was won by French man, Alex Chabot, with our very own Steve McClure coming 7th and Chris Cubitt a very respectable 9th. There wasn't a women's masters as only one woman entered.

Italian Mauro Calibani won the men's bouldering with the UK's Malcolm Smith getting 4th. Sandrine Levet from France won the women's, Claire Murphy and Katherine Schirrmacher 19th and 20th respectively.

The Dyno comp was won by Chris Graham (UK) on countback (both him and Ben Heason tied at the same height - 2.38m).

There's a Rocktalk discussion going on...


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9 Dec, 2001
I was there on Saturday and thought that the entry price of £16.75 was a little steep for what was on show. The retail area was very sparse on climbing gear, large size climbing shoes aside, and as you say what was available was not the most desirable gear available. I did enjoy the bouldering world cup though. The French girl that won the womens event was in a class of her own.
10 Dec, 2001
Went to all 3 days, and got in early enough on Friday to shop before it got too busy and all the good stuff went. Shopped, bouldered, went to lectures, watched some amazing climbing. Only issues were with the catering (yuk) and the distinctly unfriendly matting under the public access boulder - though they did add some extra mats later in the festival. Otherwise excellent fun, met some other RTers, managed to learn quite a bit as well. Any event this size is going to have some niggles, but they were minor ones. Definately worth the dosh.
10 Dec, 2001
Womens Bouldering - Sandrine Levat Mens Bouldering - Mauro Calibani (Malc Smith 4th) Masters - Alex Chabot (topped out twice) OK!
10 Dec, 2001
I was stewarding on Saturday, so didn't get chance to look around much (did see a fair bit of the women's bouldering tho' ;-)). Appreciate your points in response to "Kipper at work", but don't see why people *should* "make the best of what they get" if what they got could have been much better with a bit more organised direction to the effort. Personally, I was quite surprised by how poorly organised some elements of things were "backstage". Not having a go at Vanessa, Alex, Anne or anyone, all of whom were working flat out to solve problems, and doing excellent jobs. However, I was a bit surprised that nothing had been done in advance re, eg, sorting out the registration forms for the Junior Bouldering Comp. Ended up with Emma Twyford's mum taking it on herself and running off registration/ parental consent forms on Saturday, prompted by the large number of kids asking where to register for it. If I'd known that the forms hadn't been done, I'd have happily knocked them up myself beforehand! There were quite a few similar incidents where people knew that *someone*, *somewhere* must know what was going on, but there was nothing written anywhere easily accessible, and the people to ask weren't always around. I know these things happen at large events, but I've been involved myself in organising stuff, and there was a much bigger feeling of "winging it" on this event than on anything else I've been involved with. Maybe that's climbers for you? The spreadsheets sent out in advance, carefully listing volunteer's locations/jobs seemed to have no relevance to where people ended up! As far as the paying public were concerned, yes, there were some good gear bargains to be had, but the overall retail space available/taken up was much smaller than it could have been. Judging by the massive queues outside S & R on Saturday, additional retail space would have been well used, and there was plenty room for it. The scoreboard was pathetic. The catering was crap...OK, the French people I saw gobbing off about it were maybe understandable, but plenty Brits were saying the same. Having so many excellent speakers on site was great...good value even if you only got to see a couple, given that £6 is a fairly normal entry fee for a talk by a "name" these days. However, I completely endorse other comments about the quality of the "theatre". The "have a go" and public bouldering area (where I spent most of my time) seemed to run fairly smoothly, but I noticed a wide variation in the belaying competence of the volunteers. Not being SPA (minimum) I "didn't qualify" to belay, but would have done, I believe, a safer job than one or two volunteers were doing, despite my lack of paper. I'll stress that *most* were doing a great job, but there were one or two dodgy ones. Verdict...yes, good, but definitely could have been better.
11 Dec, 2001
Who in the BMC organised the F of C 2001? Are they experienced in this sort of thing? Why was the so-called Berghaus Theatre right next to the Competition Walls/ (I hear people walked out disgusted). Why is it not held in a beautiful quaint old climbing town ( with good pubs), like Buxton, Llanberis, Ambleside, Llandudno, Kendal etc Does it encourage Top Roping? Why did the big screen next to the competition predominantly have advertizing rather than telling you who was climbing? Why was the the advertizing so crass and blatant, and why was the service to the paying customer so poor? Mick R
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