UKC

Cold Wind Heats Up Action On God's Own Rock

© Paul Diffley, Hot Aches
Sunday was almost a perfect Gritstone day, the showers retreated, the sky was blue and the temperatures were low. Stanage was packed with punters like myself cruising Diffs and VS's and having a whale of a time. Conditions were also perfect for those operating a little higher up our unique British grading scale.

James Pearson, (bio at Wild Country website) who has repeated Neil Bentley's masterpiece at Burbage South, Equilibrium, the UK's first E10, has added his own testpiece at Burbage North. He climbed the short arete right of Superstition (E8) on the Living In Oxford block to give Promise, offering a grade of E10 7a (or Font 8a climbing), headpointed, spotted and protected by a small slider of dubious worth (photo-topo here).

Meanwhile at Burbage South, Australian brothers, Ben and Lee Cossey after a shift behind the counter at the busy Hathersage emporium of Outside, decided on a spot of night climbing. Ben climbed Parthian Shot, John Dunne's famous E9 6c, by head torch, but by the E7 6c direct start of Child's Play. All gear was placed on lead except the gear in the flake. His brother Lee was thwarted on his attempt by head torch reflections from the shiny carabiners. (photo-topo here).

Meanwhile at Cratcliffe Ben Bransby soloed the Cratcliffe Prow after top rope practice. Short but with a bad landing he did it twice, thinks it maybe Font 7c, and was originally going to have his Mum and dog spotting but luckily roped in a couple of 'boulderers' to do the job. You can read a first person account of his ascent at the ukbouldering.com forum, he posts under the name of 'El Mocho".


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17 Jan, 2007
I thought this was going to be an article about Northumberland. You've got the title wrong.
17 Jan, 2007
ha ha, I like the fact that Ben Bransby was going to use his mum and dog as spotters :-)
17 Jan, 2007
Paul Diffley at Hot Aches has further pics of James Pearson on Promise. http://hotaches.blogspot.com/
This Sunday looks like wall to wall sunshine and cold air for Grit lovers everywhere! I will however be working, tomorrow I will be day off and the weather is going to be absolute shite!
17 Jan, 2007
From James Pearson Thought you guys might be interested in a bit of info and some of my feelings about the route? A few years ago I decided I would like put up my own hard grit route. I wanted to climb something that was a great line, had fantastic moves, was technically at another level and also very bold. I racked my brains, asked lots of friends and scoured through guidebooks but nothing seemed right. I realized that if I wanted to stand a good chance doing something really hard then I needed to get stronger and so started to dedicate more of my time to bouldering. For the last two years I have been pretty much only bouldering and it has made a big difference to my strength and general ability. I first looked at the arête right of superstition about one year ago but it was too hard to contemplate leading, at the start of this season, I got psyched for it once again and I was surprised to find the moves felt a lot easier. I managed to link it in two sections and the process began… The climbing on The Promise is powerful, technical and very conditions dependant. The landing is very, very poor and the crux comes right at the top. It is a very intense route, you don’t even get chance to chalk. The bottom half is overhanging, with big moves on good holds, the top half is vertical, with crimps, pockets, pebbles and slopers, all of them small and poor. I found it very hard to link in one, falling on the last moves more often than not. The climbing is both physically and mentally harder than Equilibrium E10 7a. The day of the lead was like most other day on the route in that, on a toprope, I fell off the last move lots and lots. Eventually the sun went down, the conditions improved and everything felt easy on the lead. I even got to make a trade mark sketch! It feels really good to have it done, for the last month or so this has been a major part of my life and I was begining to doubt if I would get it done. I was planning on bouldering again for the near future but I have definitely got a little of my route psych back and have had a sneaky look at one or two other “last great problems”, time will tell… http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6749.20.html
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