UKC

How To Become A Super Climber

© Kay Chernush
There have been many debates at UKClimbing.com about climbers with 'natural talent,' with many postulating that some top climbers are born with natural talent and that no matter how often you train, how often you climb outside, without the necessary 'genetics' you have no chance of reaching the dizzying talent of climbers like Chris Sharma or Steve McClure.

Not so explains an article in todays New York Times entitled 'How To Grow A Super Athlete' by Daniel Coyle (in Play, a New York Times Sports Magazine).

It's all to do with practice, practice, practice and discipline, and more to the point myelin a material that wraps around nerve fibers and becomes more efficient the more we 'practice' movements, excercises and complex skills, from trying a tricky boulder problem to playing the violin. Much of the current research into myelin has actually been carried out by a climber, Douglas Fields (website), the director of the Laboratory of Developmental Neurobiology at the National Institutes of Health in Bethesda, Md in the USA.

If you are quick, and register as a user at nytimes.com - click here, you can read the full article (much more detailed than this news report can describe) and if you scroll down the homepage to Video and click on the left hand thumbnail of a climber and 'The Brains Behind The Talent' you can hear a synopsis of the article and see Douglas Fields and his daughters climbing.

This article and research goes far beyond climbing of course. If you are a parent or a student, read it, it may reinforce views you already have or might be a complete revelation.

In the same Play magazine, is an article entitled, Climb Like A Girl, a photo-essay by Arno Rafael Minkkinen with commentary by Elizabeth Hightower that explains how the hormonal balance is shifting in climbing. You may remember UKClimbing.com ran a series of four articles with the same title in April 2005 (read UKClimbing.com's Climb Like A Girl articles here) that have been viewed 106,415 times since then. You can also catch a slide show at nytimes.com - click here about the Hightower article.


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4 Mar, 2007
I thought this bit was especially interesting: 'Deliberate practice means working on technique, seeking constant critical feedback and focusing ruthlessly on improving weaknesses. "It feels like you're constantly stretching yourself into an uncomfortable area beyond what you can quite do," Ericsson told me. It's hard to sustain deliberate practice for long periods of time, which may help explain why players like Jimmy Connors succeeded with seemingly paltry amounts of practice while their competitors were hitting thousands of balls each day. As the tennis commentator Mary Carillo told me, "He barely practiced an hour a day, but it was the most intense hour of your life."'
5 Mar, 2007
5 Mar, 2007
Unfortunately I haven't been able to read the actual article, only UKC's summary. From what I can ascertain though, this whole issue is hot air. Any geneticist worth his salt would laugh in your face if you suggested to them that there's no such things as genetic differences in ability; the fact that such differences exist is an axiom of evolution and developmental biology. Furthermore, it is common sense that if you train and work hard at something, you will reach levels that the majority of the population cannot reach - and the harder/longer you train, the higher your ability level above that of the general populace will be. Saying "I will never be able to climb x grade because I'm just not genetically gifted" is bollocks, and a useful excuse for those unwilling to the effort in. But trying to extend that argument to suggest that some people are not more naturally talented than others (at anything, let along climbing) is equally rubbish.
5 Mar, 2007
5 Mar, 2007
Don't you need a genetic predisposition to put the effort in? ;-)
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