UKC

Bolts get back at Berzins

Here's a funny one from Steve Crow...

"Martin Berzins took a whipper on Sunday at Kilnsey, plummeting head first to stop only six feet short of the ground. He was 'resting' on a bolt at the time when the mild steel bolt (circa 1987) snapped.

Even more ironic that the route was none other the 'Frankie Comes to Kilnsey' - the scene of the bolt chopping wars of the eighties!"

It does highlight an important point though - not that most sport climbers are middle aged, but the number of dodgy bolts on Yorkshire limestone.

Perhaps the thread about the non-existent resources of the Yorkshire Bolt Fund is worth resurrecting?...click here for thread.


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23 Apr, 2002
I can assure you Andy that I have contributed plenty of money to bolt funds. For various reasons, we don't publicise donations to bolting projects in the guidebooks. I doubt whether the people buying Peak Gritstone East are buying it for the new routes. Incidentally 40p from each copy of Peak Gritstone East goes to the BMC Access fund, this is exactly the same as each BMC guidebook contributes to the Access fund. Had any decent discussions on ROCKTALK? Found any useful information on our crag databases lately? Downloaded any of our free updates? Had any decent holidays in Spain? Been bouldering in the Peak or Yorkshire recently? How about a sport climbing trip to North Wales Limestone or Dorset? Discovered any crags in Pembroke that you couldn't find before? What the hell have I been doing with myself for the last 10 years! Better pull my socks up! Alan
23 Apr, 2002
Putting something back into climbing is not just supporting a small part of the climbing scene such as bolting. Nor is it a case of simply money. Yes some form of funding is required to keep fixed pro routes in a safe condition. The BMC funded the initial eco-bolting of Pen Trwyn and, I believe, perform annual checks on the condition of those bolts. Much of this work was agreed with the local council to preserve access to the crags there. Which raises the point that funding is also needed to preserve access: there is not much point in having a crag re-bolted every X years if you are not permitted to climb on it. By providing guidebooks and this website RockFax ARE putting something back into climbing. It just isn't as obvious to the blind man. Bob
23 Apr, 2002
I love and appreciate you Niff....pull your socks up anyway.....you don't want to be accused of resting on your laurels... Incidently - the best model for replacing ancient bolts that I have found http://www.safeclimbing.org/ What Chris Mac and Greg Barnes (and friends) have done over the past few years is truly remarkable. Greg came back from Red Rocks last week, unshaven and dishevelled after replacing over 100 bolts on several Red Rock classics....benefits us all. All supported by individual climbers and climbing companies. Could someone sort something out like this in the UK? Mick
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