Olza, who had previously climbed 12 of the world's 8,000 meter peaks including a new route on Shisha Pangma turned back from the summit after he ran out of rope. He was also suffering from bad frost-bite in his hands. Things worsened with pulmonary complications and various climbers set off against awful conditions to rescue him.
Ueli Steck reached the ill climber after climbing a hard route up the south face with Denis Urubko. Steck abandoned plans for a new route and forced his way through deep fresh snow for 4 hours so that he could assist Olza.
Various parties involved in the rescue are still high on the mountain and our thoughts are with them. We wish them a safe descent.
Annapurna I was the first 8,000-metre peak to be climbed. Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, of a French expedition, reached the summit on 3 June 1950. Its summit was the highest summit attained on Earth for three years, until the first successful ascent of Mount Everest.
The south face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston, members of a British expedition led by Chris Bonington which included the alpinist Ian Clough, who was killed by a falling ice-pillar during the descent.
Sources:
Comments