Dave Brown and Paul Diffley of Hot Aches have been very busy at Dumbarton the last 5 weeks, and longer of course when you count Dave MacLeod's 2006 first ascent that was the subject of their award winning film E11 (see trailer). This documentation has continued with Sonnie Trotter's recent ascents and now Steve McClure's. Before they retired tonight, quite exhausted, Dave Brown sent this report and photos that add to this great climbing story that most climbers have been following at UKClimbing.com.
"It was an incredibly impressive piece of climbing from Steve. The technical perfection that we all expect of him wasn't quite enough and it was only a huge battling spirit that got him through the final moves to the top.
4 days. 3rd redpoint. Damn fast. Also great to see the mutual support between these climbers. Steve's first trip up to Dumbarton brought some much needed energy to Sonnie's spirits during his epic. It also brought some new beta, a better way to shake out and recover. For Steve there was a ready prepared route, brushed cleaned, gear placements worked out and with 2 jugging lines in situ. Sonnie and Cory even left Steve the vital piece of gear onto which they had taken 40+ big falls between the 2 of them. (Steve thought it looked like it might snap with anymore falls, so found an identical piece to replace it)."
FILM STILLS: Steve McClure on Rhapsody
Photo: Steve McClure 1
Photo: Steve McClure 2
Photo: Steve McClure 3
Photo: Success
© Hot Aches 2008
Steve McClure is sponsored by Petzl, Five Ten, Beal and Fat Face.
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