UKC

Second F8c+ on-sight from Usobiaga

© www.patxiusobiaga.com
Spain's Patxi Usobiaga continues his run of form by on-sighting Home Sweet Home F8c+ at Pierrot Beach, Preles in France. This is Patxi's second on-sight of a route at this grade, his first being the first ascent of Bizi Euskaraz at Etxauri in Spain on Tuesday, 11th of December 2007. (see the UKClimbing.com report)

Patxi comments on his 8a.nu scorecard that he feels Home Sweet Home is,

"Easier than Bizi Euskaraz 8c+."

It is also worth noting that nobody else has yet managed to match this feat, which places him firmly on top of the pile when it comes to cutting edge sport on-sights.

Patxi Usobiaga, winner of the 2007 World Cup, also in December 2007 redpointed two 9a+'s and a 8c+/9a and made on-sights of 8b, 8c, 8b+. Soon after on the 9th December, taking only five tries, he made the first ascent of a Daniel Andrada project, F*ck the system, at Santa Linya with a proposed a grade of 9a. Two days later he made the world's first 8c+ on-sight.

Patxi Usobiaga is sponsored by La Sportiva, Tendon Ropes and Black Diamond.


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21 Jul, 2008
totally awesome. Anyone know of any articles on his training regimen. Cheers Tim
21 Jul, 2008
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbyRORGikcY BEAST! The drudgery of the comp circuit shines through to me in the video but there's no doubting that 7 hours a day training is hardcore and pays dividends.
21 Jul, 2008
where on earth is Peirrot Beach? i'm guessing it's not a major climbing destination.
21 Jul, 2008
21 Jul, 2008
cheers Mick....just realised it's not actually a beach but a sector in Preles. In my googling i found a good vid of M. Fusilier on a route there: http://www.zapiks.com/pierrot-beach-presles-m-fuse.html
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