UKC

Strawberries - A British On Sight?

© Uli Wiesmeier
Strawberries (E6 6b) is a fierce crack-line taking the challenge of the overhanging headwall at the top of the Vector Buttress on the famous Craig Bwlch y Moch area of Tremadog. Legend has it that the route has never had a true on sight ascent.

Whilst researching the history of the route for a UKC article, I came across some interesting facts... including an ascent that was termed a "British On Sight Ascent" but unfortunately was ground-up, with one fall.

In the article I also speak to German super-star Stefan Glowacz, both over the telephone and face to face in Germany. I find out once and for all the exact style in which he climbed the route.

I explore the history, from the first ascent in 1980, through to my abortive attempt in 2008. Along the way I speak to several important ascentionists, including Johnny Woodward and Al Murray. I also talk at length about the grade – how can it 'only' be E6 when everyone falls off?

Want to find out if Strawberries has had a British on sight? - Well unfortunately it hasn't... yet.

Read the full UKC Article


This post has been read 27,046 times

Return to Latest News


19 Sep, 2008
Really interesting article Jack, cheers
19 Sep, 2008
Good article, and OK he's a mate, but I think the one downside of the article is that it disparages Ron's genius at the time of the first ascent, both in conceiving the line and assuming it was possible (and proving he was correct).
19 Sep, 2008
Seems there was a competition for the first ascent between two climbers, with different approaches in style. "It's March 1980, Tremadog is very much 'in vogue'. Think Adidas tracksuits, 3/4 length tights, EB's and huge chalk bags. If you've got an orange vest to wear over your T-shirt, all the better. The race for the first ascent of Strawberries is on and Ron Fawcett is in the lead. He eventually climbs the route after several falls over a period of two weekends, reaching the top in the yo-yo style - with his ropes pre-clipped in runners from a previous high-point, his gear pre-placed on abseil, meaning no energy wasted on his actual ascent attempt. Dodgy tactics? Absolutely! But who cares, Strawberries is climbed and Ron secures his place at the top of the pack. Close behind is John Redhead, who was also in the running for the first ascent, but didn't quite get there in time: "John would have done it months before if he had used the same tactics" Keith Robertson is quoted as saying in the CC guidebook history section. Sometimes a bit of 'cheating' is the only way to win! A few years on and the crown of Britain's rock prince became up for grabs. Firing on to the scene was a very ambitious Jerry Moffatt who had designs on unseating Fawcett and becoming the reigning champion himself. A few years later and Jerry had proved himself to have taken climbing to a new level, but not on Strawberries. It took him four falls and two days, finally resorting to the yo-yo tactics of his predecessor to secure success."
19 Sep, 2008
Having seen that shot of Stefan before, I'm still surprised at the length of the (self-imposed) run-out, you'd go miles if you fluffed a move!! Just how hard is it at that point? 7c/7c+?? Given that E7 used to be reckoned equivalent to F8a, (*) it (Strawberries) could well be top end E6. Given that it is a different style of climbing to that of most routes on-sighted at this sort of level maybe it isn't surprising that it doesn't get cruised very often. * If someone has a copy of the Yorkshire Limestone supplement to hand that first had the routes on the Catwalk then I think that Raindogs got E7. ALC
19 Sep, 2008
Good answer Mick.
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email