UKC

Font 8C+ for Toni Lamprecht

© UKC News
photo
Font 8C+ for Toni Lamprecht
© Bruno Axhausen
Toni Lamprecht has linked Bokassa's Fridge (Font 8C) into Assassin Monkey and Man (Font 8C) to create a super hard boulder problem link, which he has graded Font 8C+.

In an interview with Bjorn Pohl on The Low Down, Toni says:

"It was a lucky day, when I did it, because I needed 6 tries on that day and I don't wanna tell you where I fell before succeeding."

"It is hard to compare 'Bokassa's Fridge-Assassin, Monkey and Man' to other climbs, because for me it started as a game and ended (after some holds changed) as the new bouldering-highlight in front of my home. I wouldn't consider it as a great line if it would be anywhere else, but at home it is something that you can try every day. It has nice, powerful and of course long moves and the rock is always dry."

You can view more photos of the problem on Bruno Axhausen's Flickr page.

Source: The Low Down


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13 Mar, 2009
Good stuff. James
13 Mar, 2009
amazing stuff!, did he do the whole of both 8C's? if so, thats pretty sick!
13 Mar, 2009
But should it really get a font grade? It's 27 moves long...
13 Mar, 2009
The jury has been out on that one for a long time, with no resolution in sight. I gave some traverses I did at the Happy Boulders a sport grade and a V- grade - V-grades stuck. Then we have boulder-routes to add into the equation. It's all climbing and the grade, whatever type you give, gives an estimate of the difficulty. This one by Lamprecht must be up there with the hardest sequence of moves done. Just don't ask anyone to rank it in comparison with others because no one knows. Mick
16 Mar, 2009
You are correct, it wouldn't. This prospective Font8c+ boulderer would be able to shake out fully on every single hold and would find it all easy. The 8c+ would probably be more accurately rated as F9a (or harder I'm unsure on how to convert) and you couldn't really have the hardest move on a F9a being font6a. James
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