Sylvain Millet climbs Biographie F9a+Fri Night Vid

29th January, 2010

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Biographie, a F8c+ route at Ceuse that was extended by Chris Sharma to give an overall grade of F9a+, is one of the most beautiful extreme sport routes in the world.

Sharma named his extension Realisation but the locals still call the route Biographie since the custom in France is that the person who puts the bolts in is the one who is allowed to name the route. In this case the bolts were placed by Jean-Christophe Lafaille who gave it the name. Arnaud Petite managed to climb 2/3 of the route and put a new chain in. Sharma then extended it and renamed it.

You can read more about Ceuse, known as the best crag in the world, in this UKC Destination Article.

You can read an article (in French) about the route here on Karin.com.

Here French climber Sylvain Millet climbs the extended version at F9a+:

This post has been read 9,167 times

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Comments

29 Jan, 2010

I'm always surprised at how effortless he makes this look. Proper no messin' about.

johncoxmysteriously

29 Jan, 2010

Intrigued by the title of the video - do our Gallic friends not recognise Sharma's name, then? jcm

Alex Buisse

29 Jan, 2010

In the video, he says he has done the bottom part (original F8c+) more than 50 times before he managed to pull the crux... Now that's what I call mileage!

richardh

29 Jan, 2010

There was some discussion about this in the climbing media at the time I think, I remember reading about it *somewhere*, to do with - did he have the 'right' to rename it, no doubt by the time I've dredged it out of the recesses of my memory, someone on here will have given chapter and verse, but if I recall it, I'll post back.

Tim Broughtonshaw

1 Feb, 2010

from what i've heard, the french rule of thumb is that the equipper of a route names it not the first ascentionist. cheers Tim

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