UKC

Brits Continue New Routing in Chamonix

© Pete Benson and Nick Bullock
Pete Benson leaning out to battle with the final pitch of Captain Caveman  © Pete Benson and Nick Bullock
Pete Benson leaning out to battle with the final pitch of Captain Caveman
© Pete Benson and Nick Bullock

Pete Benson tackles a thinly iced Captain Caveman  © Pete Benson and Nick Bullock
Pete Benson tackles a thinly iced Captain Caveman
© Pete Benson and Nick Bullock
Reported back in January on UKC was the new routes climbed at the Rive Gauche area, Argentiere glacier, near Chamonix.

The Brits involved, Pete Benson and Nick Bullock, have been back in action in the same area completing a string of new routes in a ground-up Scottish style.

Bullock described the hardest route - Captain Caveman (M7+, VIII,9):

"Captain Caveman took two visits. The first visit was going well. Two pitches completed I stood in a massive cave belaying Benson. He stein pulled out of the cave (can opener, upside down axe pulls), feet smeared level with his head. Stein pull into stein pull, a blob of turf, a bulging corner, crampon points screeched on smooth rock.

Stein pull, swap hands, stein pull and finally a foothold. Pete now had grave reservations. The crack above was steep, wide and verglassed. The biggest cam we had was a number 4 and this crack was going to eat number 4, 5 and 6 camelots, and after it had eaten the gear it would then devour (piggy) Benson for lunch. Run away!

...Benson and I returned two days later armed with a double set of cams and a 4, 5, and 6 camelot... ...Pete fought the crack using a variety of methods and a variety of gear and eventually after an hour and a half slithered around the final bulge."

Other routes climbed include Happy House (M5+, VII,7) and Bringing Home the Bacon (M6+, VII,8).

Many of these routes have now had second ascents at the hands of various climbers including Jon Griffith (UKC Gear Tester) and French climber Jeff Mercier. Griffith reported back they they were of a high quality and well worth climbing.

More details available on the DMM Website, on Nick Bullocks Blog (if his bandwidth hasn't been exceeded again) and lots more photos and a topo are on Pete Benson's FlickR Page.

Nick Bullock on Bringing Home the Bacon  © Pete Benson and Nick Bullock
Nick Bullock on Bringing Home the Bacon
© Pete Benson and Nick Bullock


Nick Bullock is sponsored by DMM and Mammut.

Pete Benson is supported by Adidas


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10 Feb, 2010
more holiday snaps from the boys in chamonix- does anyone really care?
10 Feb, 2010
"more holiday snaps from the boys in chamonix- does anyone really care?" I agree I hate hearing about other people climbing, I mean why would anyone want to read about new routes in the Alps, taking a new slant on a popular area. If that Bullock bloke doesn't watch it he might give people some inspiration in their own climbing and we need to keep them miserable so Alkira can have some "mates" to whinge with.
10 Feb, 2010
Another little new route by 2 bumblies (D.Tunstall amd myself). See website www.ice-fall.com. "Benediction" Scottish mixed 5 in another very popular area - Argentiere la Bessee. Please go and look at it, it's great fun and makes great holiday snaps!
10 Feb, 2010
Hey buddha get off your phat derrier and get hill billy boys route on Scafell sorted, looks well good and proper.
10 Feb, 2010
Those ladies should be up on the jorrasse, battling black ice and powder, not posing about the valley crags, i asks you.
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