UKC

The Rock Archives: Old New-Route Books Online

© The Rock Archivist
Beau Geste first ascent details by Jonny Woodward  © The Rock Archivist
Beau Geste first ascent details by Jonny Woodward
© The Rock Archivist
Have you ever wondered how Jonny Woodward described the first ascent of Beau Geste, his 1982 extreme classic arete at Froggat in the Peak District?

John Allen described it in Extreme Rock thus ... "its ascent was a moment of inspiration fired by desire....a classic natural sculpture and challenge.... made to be climbed - but only by the best."

Jonny Woodward described it as, ""the obscure and insignificant arete 20ft left of Holly Groove"

What happens to all these historical first ascent descriptions written in various new routes books?

The Rock Archivist is the brainchild of Lancashire climber Phil Kelly and is a project attempting to collect new route books all together, image and index them and then publish them online. Phil is well on the way with this project, with the help of several climbers, and his son Oliver who is doing some of the scanning. Phil had this idea way back at the birth of the internet when he was leafing through a Lancashire new route book kept at Ian Lonsdale's pub, the Black Dog, near Bolton.

The Rock Archivist... scanning new route books and making them available to all.  © The Rock Archivist
The Rock Archivist... scanning new route books and making them available to all.
© The Rock Archivist

So far The Rock Archivist displays eight surviving Stoney Middleton books as well as two from the Outside in Hathersage, plus a number of other resources. More than thirty books are queued for publication in the next few months.

Have a dig around and tell Phil what you think, maybe even offer to help. All is revealed at www.rockarchivist.co.uk


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25 Feb, 2010
Great stuff, rolling back the years! Chris
25 Feb, 2010
just had a quick look through a few pages and was heartened to find that the pro/anti bolting thing was going on as far back as the mid eighties, and people on UKC seem to think they are a the cutting edge.
25 Feb, 2010
The bolting argument pre-dates the 80's and yes it still rages today. Most UKC readers of an age know that, and those that don't are usually educated about it.
25 Feb, 2010
It's been on the hob since the first bolts were placed. Usually it bubbles away on a back burner but sometimes it spills over. It'll never be done. Another, recently discovered Peak book documents 'clean' ascents of routes in the area - ie done chalkless. This isn't quite as big an issue as it was in the late 70's! This book will be online within a fortnight so you can read it online. On another subject, another book I've been given is Steve Bancroft's personal new route journal, which should be online by the end of next week. Phil
25 Feb, 2010
Well done for all this hard work Phil. Your place in climbing heaven is now reserved, but take your time....
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