Canadian climber Steve Townshend has made the second ascent of Tim Emmett's recent Pembroke addition Muy Caliente! (E10).
Muy Caliente! tackles the blank wall to the left of the now classic hard route Ghost Train (route 8 on the far right side in the above topo) in Stennis Ford, Pembroke, South Wales.
Townshend, a part-time pilot based in Squamish, Canada, visited the UK for a whistle-stop two days as a detour from his main trip to France. He arrived at Pembroke late on a Wednesday evening and managed to top rope the route before dark, leaving his gear in place for the following day. The military range was closed the next morning at 9am, so by getting to the route at 7am (after persuading the guard at the gate) Steve managed to grab an hour window, but this wasn't enough for a lead attempt.
"Tim talked me in to extending my ticket, as the weather was good and I had the beta for the route." said Steve. "I had planned to go home and then return later, but that would have been way more expensive, and I may not have ever made it back".
Steve stayed in the UK for a few extra days and headed back on the route, climbing it on his second lead attempt.
"On my first go on lead I felt strong and I did all the hard climbing, but right at the end on the final move to a jug, which is the end of the difficulties, my foot slipped and I fell." he commented.
There were no mistakes on the second effort and Steve climbed to the top, making the second ascent of what is most likely Pembroke's hardest route.
Tim Emmett commented on his Facebook page:
"It took Steve 3 short days and two attempts. He graded it 5.13d RX which equates to F8b."
Steve then spent the following day on a tour of Pembroke ticking several classic E5's.
"It was well worth staying just for that, seeing the area and doing some classic routes. It's a really beautiful place." he said. "I'm really pleased I came and did more than just one route!"
You can read the original UKC News report on Tim Emmett's first ascent here: UKC News
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