UKC

Donald King and Andy Nelson climb Satyr IX,9 FWA

© Andy Nelson
photo
Donald King on the pinnacle flake of Satyr P3
© Andy Nelson

Donald King on Satyr P1  © Andy Nelson
Donald King on Satyr P1
© Andy Nelson
The FWA of Satyr was completed on Sunday 5th Dec 2010 by Donald King and Andy Nelson. This is a summer E1,5a on Central Buttress, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe.

Donald King and myself - Mike Pescod had a look at the line back in November and Andy climbed the first pitch with Donald on Tuesday of last week. This turned out to be a very bold and hard lead after which the team decided to carry on up Central Buttress so they did not get stuck out in the dark. On it's own this pitch is probably around IX,8 with several sections of long run-outs and poor protection which they were not keen to repeat!

Yesterday, Donald led up Central Grooves/Buttress to the top of the first pitch of Satyr, Andy led the link pitch before Donald went for the pinnacle flake above. This was quite strenuous and awkward resulting in Donald being unable to retrieve his ice axe at one point. He continued to the top of the flake with one axe and cold fingers!

Andy then climbed the mantelshelf (with one fall) and the groove above to easier ground. All in all there are three very hard pitches in the 100m route and the team thinks it might be around IX,9. Donald says "it's certainly much harder than Unicorn" which he did last spring!

photo
Andy Nelson climbing the top groove of Satyr P4
© Andy Nelson

Thanks go to Mike Pescod for this report.

Read other news and conditions reports on the Abacus Mountaineering Website


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6 Dec, 2010
RAD. Looks ace. Good effort.
6 Dec, 2010
Fantastic effort on what looks like a pretty desperate route! We started up our much easier route next door simultaneously with Donald (who sounded like he was enjoying himself practically singing up the first pitch!) and Andy, then saw (and heard!) the fall from the coire floor on our way down. Stayed long enough to work out that no-one was badly hurt (thoughts of broken bones crossing our minds) and see Andy finish the pitch, then left. Speechless with admiration, guys! :-)
6 Dec, 2010
I hope that they haven't left any scratches on the rock, ruining it for trad rock climbers. There'll be an outcry...
6 Dec, 2010
I saw you take the fall while I was leaving the corrie, I sh*t myself for you. The line you were taking looked as hard as chuck norris. Well done guys!
6 Dec, 2010
Great effort nice one ! Dan
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