UKC

E8 Action at Fairhead - Northern Ireland

© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Fairhead regular Ricky Bell has added an epic new route The Rathlin Effect (E8 6c) to the Rathlin Wall, Fairhead.

"It's without doubt the coolest line I've opened in Ireland. Long with some safe runouts and some amazing moves. It felt wild to climb!" enthused Ricky on his blog.

Ricky Bell on his 60m epic new route The Rathlin Effect  © Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Ricky Bell on his 60m epic new route The Rathlin Effect
© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes

Ricky Bell on his 60m epic new route The Rathlin Effect  © Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Ricky Bell on his 60m epic new route The Rathlin Effect
© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Route Description:

The Rathlin Effect *** 65m E8 6c

14/5/11 R. Bell, A.Moles

The beautiful prow of the Rathlin Wall.

Start up the corner to the left of Wall of Prey. A line of crimps lead across the top of the lichen wall and up to a triangular niche. Small nuts and good no.1 cam. Climb diagonally up and left to a hanging block with a letter box above. Swing up into the niche and climb the groove system on the arete in a spectacular situation. Move right around the last roof at an old rusty peg and then straight up past a very exposed boulder problem. The big foot ledge 8m below the top of the crag is a nice place to take a moment. Finish up the arete.

Speaking to UKC a few weeks prior to his successful ascent Ricky told us that:

"I was thinking it might be E9 but now I think E8...who knows/who cares -- I don't haha..it's just brilliant! 60m pitch... hard E7 into an airy E7 with a good rest in the middle..."

Ricky hasn't been the only one out on the hard routes though. Andy Marshall has made the second ascent (headpoint) of Ricky Bell's An Bealach Eile, E8 6c also at Fairhead.

Ricky Bell nearing the top of The Rathlin Effect  © Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Ricky Bell nearing the top of The Rathlin Effect
© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Ricky on the lower wall.  © Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Ricky on the lower wall.
© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes

Andy Marshall repeating An Bealach Eile  © Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Andy Marshall repeating An Bealach Eile
© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Andy Marshall repeating An Bealach Eile  © Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Andy Marshall repeating An Bealach Eile
© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes


Ricky Bell is sponsored by Marmot, Scarpa, Zero-G Climbing

Andy Marshall is sponsored by Wild Country

Thanks go to Craig Hiller for his help with this report.


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2 Jun, 2011
Brilliant - just cannot understand why very few English climbers never to to Fairhead its just "the place" for brilliant trad. well done Ricky Bell
2 Jun, 2011
just got back from second trip there and have to agree. it is such an outstanding place to climb. full on commitment required for most of the routes which just adds to the enjoyment. so many flawless lines up perfect features. can't wait to go back. i just put a pic in my gallery of ricky on his new route from last saturday - gives a good impression of the scale of the place
2 Jun, 2011
Great place - just rains every time I go (for the record - no trip this year - you may be safe)
3 Jun, 2011
I went at the weekend, managed to snatch 4 routes in three days between hail showers!!! Would def go back though, it is superb. Had a brief chat with Ricky et al, who seemed to be sat in the van for days waiting for something approaching decent conditions, good effort mate.
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