UKC

Matt Pickles Climbs True North - 8c

© Chris Gus Hudgins
Matt Pickles - 8c Crusher  © Chris Gus Hudgins
Matt Pickles - 8c Crusher
© Chris Gus Hudgins
Sheffield based climber Matt Pickles has climbed his first 8c route with an ascent of True North at Kilnsey, Yorkshire.

Matt took six days spread over two weeks to tick the route, battling wet conditions on the lower half.

He commented:

"It was pretty frustrating having the bottom wet most of the time, so it was a case of working the top and trying some links until it dried out a bit. When it was dry enough it went down on my second proper redpoint."

The route is a long and steep limestone endurance route and is one of the more popular 8cs in the UK.

Although ascents of 8c are not internationally significant in these days of young super-mutants (Adam Ondra has ruined it for everyone else!), they are quite rare in the UK.

Matt agrees:

"I know some people are starting to question whether 8c is newsworthy any more, and on a global scale it's probably not, and also for the people who are regularly climbing at this level it's not a massive deal, but within the UK it still doesn't happen that often and those breaking the grade probably deserve a mention, as it takes a lot of time and effort to get there. Just because more people are climbing at this level doesn't make the routes any easier!"

Well done Matt!

Related Photo:

Chris Savage attempting True North at Kilnsey (F8c)  © Jack Geldard
Chris Savage attempting True North at Kilnsey (F8c)
© Jack Geldard


Matt Pickles is sponsored by Blox and Wild Country


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19 Jul, 2011
Pretty fashionable route. How many ascents is that since Savage did it a couple of months ago? 5ish? Anyone know how many ascents it had before that?
19 Jul, 2011
Nice one Matt.
19 Jul, 2011
Nice one! I agree with your comment about the fact that more people are climbing these routes does not mean they have been getting any easier. We should be giving ourselves a bit of credit that the general sport-climbing standard in this country is rising and this is down to people putting in a lot of hard work and training in a way that was only done by a very few in the past. The fact that routes like Unjustified, True North, Bat Route and Cry Freedom are now getting relatively frequent ascents is because of this (not because they've all suddenly become 8bs!). Also the confidence derived from people making ascents is inspiring others to try routes that for years most people were just walking past thinking they were too hard.
19 Jul, 2011
Well said Bruno!
19 Jul, 2011
Yes well said! Nice one Matt! Jack
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