UKC

J-P Bouvier puts up 9A traverse in Font

© J.Chabert/Grimporama/Kairn
Jean-Pierre Bouvier on Fou rire, 8C, Fontainebleau  © J.Chabert/Grimporama/Kairn
Jean-Pierre Bouvier on Fou rire, 8C, Fontainebleau
© J.Chabert/Grimporama/Kairn

55 year old Fontainbleau local and traverse master Jean-Pierre Bouvier has made the first ascent of Fou rire aller/retour for which he suggests 9A trav.

The left-to-right is an 8B trav. in its own right, while the right-to-left weighs in at a mighty 8C trav. Adding the two makes a 9A apparently.

While traversing back and forth, up and down etc may sound odd to some, it's something that's been done for a long time in Fontainebleau and that's considered perfectly acceptable.

J-P has been a climbing for 40 years and has made the first ascent of a huge number of hard traverses. Before this, his most difficult one was Le Voyage de Zhong Kui en aller-retour, 8C+/9A trav., which he put up last year.

As far as I know, the only other 9A traverse is Hanspeter Bodmer's extension of Fred Nicole's E la nave va at Lindental, Switzerland.

A 9A traverse is of course ridiculously difficult, but shouldn't be confused with a 9A boulder problem (9A bloc), which would be almost impossibly difficult.

Source_ Kairn and Bleau info


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29 Jun, 2012
"shouldn't be confused with a 9A boulder problem (9A bloc), which would be impossibly difficult." Impossible?
29 Jun, 2012
So if you climb a 9A boulder problem which is a traverse (and so legitimately called a 9A traverse), how would you distinguish it from a traverse problem graded '9A traverse' (also legitimately called a 9A traverse), though actually many grades easier? I doubt I was the only one who thought this 55 yr old had claimed a 9A ascent. Stupid french.
29 Jun, 2012
so if he did another 'lap' back and forth, what grade would that be...?
29 Jun, 2012
Pretty sound. I think it's called Fou Rire, maybe, not Fou Fire? Anyway, ignoring the idiots above, what are the actual hardest traverses in Font. Is this it, or are there loads of 9a traverses? jcm
29 Jun, 2012
Well if 8B + 8C = 9A then you could say the addition of an 8C bumps the 8B up by 4 grades, or you could say the addition of an 8B bumps the 8C up by 2 grades... it follows that 8B + 8C + 8B + 8C = err 10A!
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