Dave Graham has mostly been bouldering lately, but as is the case with for example Daniel Woods, this doesn't seem to mean he can't handle route climbing. At least if the route is relatively short.
B J Tilden's Moonshine, 9a, at Wild Iris, Wyoming, is just that. A power endurance test piece on small, shallow but sharp pockets with sketchy feet.
Daniel Woods made the 2nd ascent the other day, and now Dave has made the 3rd.
There's a great write up by Dave, complete with several photos, over on Island, but here is an excerpt describing the crux section:
The hard move revolves around a blank expanse of white stone. There is a mono, a scoop, and a crimp, but no feet. Bj does a gnarly pounce-dyamnic-jump swoop, Daniel does some robot shit. I get into a strange stance, and dragon in hard with just the tip of the toe. It worked the time, punting was the only way off at that point. I was half way through the window, not going to just let it shut. I got pumped at that point, and nervous I would punt. I had to battle out the final resistance crux, but miraculously nothing slipped. Elated, I clipped the chains. I have climbed 9a faster, but this might have been the most fun i'd had sport climbing in a LONG time. Something was different. Sensations were more intense.
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