UKC

Insanity of grandeur, 8C, first ascent by Koyamada

© Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada on the Insanity of grandeur, 8C, Chironico, Switzerland  © Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyamada on the Insanity of grandeur, 8C, Chironico, Switzerland
© Ikuko Serata

I mentioned in a previous post that Dai Koyamada would go back to his Delusion of grandeur sds-project at Chironico once the weather got better, and that's exactly what he did. After only a few days of trying, he made the first ascent.

Here is what Dai says about it:

Yesterday, I did the 'Delusion'-project.
I was really lucky to climb it before it starts to rain here.

For me, the line is a bit harder than 'Der mit dem Fels tanzt', but taller climbers may feel it easier to link into 'Delusion...'.

I named it 'Insanity of grandeur', and I felt it may be soft 8C.

And after that I went to Goschenen and did 'Dulcifer sds', 8B. I t was a really nice line! I was so moved!


Dai Koyamada is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Beal, Evolv, Flashed, Inga and Musashi


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10 Nov, 2012
Good effort, whose Sue?
10 Nov, 2012
That's the worst written news report I think I've ever seen
10 Nov, 2012
Right... so I can see it's a bit confusing. Two problems share the same start, an ~8B/+ problem in itself. Then you can either go right, into "Einfisch kleinfisch", ~8A+/B, or left, into "Delusion of grandeur", ~8A+/B. Both problems are ~8B/+ into ~8A+/B but the new one is still a bit harder than the old one.
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