UKC

Paddy Cave Climbs '1984' (IX,9) Lake District

© Paddy Cave Collection
Paddy Cave has made the first winter ascent of '1984' at Flat Crags, Langdale, Lake District.

Looking up at the upper section of Flat Crags before the winter ascent of 1984. The route takes the corner on the right.  © Paddy Cave Collection
Looking up at the upper section of Flat Crags before the winter ascent of 1984. The route takes the corner on the right.
© Paddy Cave Collection

On a previous attempt Paddy had to retreat after he dropped a tool whilst leading. Paddy blogged earlier in the month:

"...with all the hard climbing more or less completed I was placing some gear and heard the clanking of a tool disappearing down the crag, I'd knock my axe out of the hook I'd left it in... with no option for getting stable to get it sent back up I was forced to accept failure and lower off..."

The line of 1984  © Paddy Cave Collection
The line of 1984
© Paddy Cave Collection
Paddy in the upper corner section, after the roof.  © Paddy Cave Collection
Paddy in the upper corner section, after the roof.
© Paddy Cave Collection

However this Saturday saw no mishaps and Paddy completed the climb. He reported on his blog:

"...arriving at the crag it was obvious that the crag was plastered but we couldn't see the overhanging wall start without detouring to the crag, so going up around the corner we saw that the ice at the groove's bottom and icicle were still there, there was more fresh snow blown around the lower part of the route and now there was also ice in the cracks to clear.

So happy with the condition of the lower section of the route I gave it another go.  Repelled with some sequence confusion on the crux which I knew from before and then the pump setting in I returned to the deck, rested, and started again...  This time I got through the crux, gained the upper corner still with both axes, and climbed the brilliant upper corner to the belay... ... It was great to get this climbed and the climbing quality, hooks, and nature of the route gives a brilliant winter route with 2 contrasting sections.  I am not really too sure about the grade but would suggest IX,9..."


Paddy Cave is supported by Sherpa Adventure Gear and The Epicentre

Check out Paddy's instructing website here: Mountain Circles


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10 Dec, 2012
Well done Paddy.
10 Dec, 2012
Yes good work but please bear in mind that Flat Crags holds the greatest potential for future summer trad super routes in the Lake District. It also happens to be formed from a particularly beautiful volcanic tuff which is very easily damaged by scratching.
10 Dec, 2012
Sounds fair game for a top roping to me :) It's not Embankment wall after all. Anyone for a mass meeting and top-rope?
11 Dec, 2012
Well said that man! Very sad.
11 Dec, 2012
Will we now see this thread removed ?
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