UKC

Bouldering World Cup Millau - Coxsey 2nd

© Austria Climbing Federation – Oewk, Heiko Wilhelm
Last weekend saw the second round of the bouldering world cup in Millau, France.

Anna Stöhr and Killian Fischuber from Austria took first place in the women's and men's categories, this being Anna's second win in a row for the 2013 world cup season.

Killian Fischuber takes first place in Millau, France 2013  © Austria Climbing Federation – Oewk, Heiko Wilhelm
Killian Fischuber takes first place in Millau, France 2013
© Austria Climbing Federation – Oewk, Heiko Wilhelm
Shauna Coxsey pulling hard to secure second place at Millau, France  © Austria Climbing Federation – Oewk, Heiko Wilhelm
Shauna Coxsey pulling hard to secure second place at Millau, France
© Austria Climbing Federation – Oewk, Heiko Wilhelm

Finals Results:

Millau World Cup

Anna Stöhr climbing to first place for the second time in two rounds - Millau, France  © Austria Climbing Federation – Oewk, Heiko Wilhelm
Anna Stöhr climbing to first place for the second time in two rounds - Millau, France
© Austria Climbing Federation – Oewk, Heiko Wilhelm

British climber Shauna Coxsey came in an excellent second place, and commented on her blog:

"Observation of the final boulder problems left me feeling a little worried. The first boulder was a run and jump. My WORST nightmare... ...It was frustrating, funny, terrifying, awkward, embarrassing, rewarding and actually kinda fun. I failed at the run and jump 7 times. I wasn't even close to holding the holds. On my eighth attempt I decided to actually look where my hands were going, not just concentrate on my feet. It worked somehow. Finally!"

You can see Shauna in action on that problem at 46:30 in the replay video below.

She did it! The moment Shauna latches the elusive holds on problem 1 in the finals. Go Shauna!  © IFSC - Screen Shot from Live Stream
She did it! The moment Shauna latches the elusive holds on problem 1 in the finals. Go Shauna!
© IFSC - Screen Shot from Live Stream
However despite needing 8 attempts at the first problem, Shauna was agonisingly close to first place. She commented on her blog:

"The finals got better and better. I topped the second problem second try after a silly mistake and flashed the third. The last boulder looked fun but hard. When it came to my turn to climb it seemed only Anna had topped it. Which meant if I did to I could place second. After missing the awkward dyno a few times I got to to the top. I was happy with the performance I gave and excited to see the results. After getting my things together I wandered round to the front of the boulders only at this point did I look at the score board. I had 4 tops in 14 and Anna had 4 tops in 13. I had NO idea it was so close. This brought a great smile to my face. To come second to Anna is never a disappointment. She is simply incredible and a massive inspiration to me..."

  • Read here full account on her blog.

The other Brits put in excellent performances and the results were:

Men:

  • Ned Feehally - 26th
  • Dave Barrans - 27th
  • Jonathan Partridge 31st

Women:

  • Shauna Coxsey - 2nd
  • Leah Crane - 7th
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk - 12th
  • Michaela Tracy - 35th
  • Diane Merrick - 40th

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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

Shauna's Athlete Page 80 posts 18 videos



8 Apr, 2013
Damn fine effort by Shauna.
9 Apr, 2013
I watched the women's final live in Munich last year and thought Anna and Akiyo were clearly in a different league to everybody else. Shauna however was hobbling around in the audience on crutches at that point.
9 Apr, 2013
Great comp and good web feed. However, the inclusion of the run and jump was a bit of a shame. I'd rather see more quality climbing instead of a daft challenge more akin to steeplechasing. Many comments on the web show that I'm not alone, so hopefully the IFSC will listen to the feedback. The climbers are great at what they do - just let them climb!
9 Apr, 2013
Awesome effort Shauna.... Agree that the run and jump problem was a let down...Running on a crash mat is bloody hard and shouldn't be the difference maker in a climbing comp!
9 Apr, 2013
Totally agree, especially as it is what cost Shauna first place. She looked knackered on the last problem so thought that was an awesome effort to top it.
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