UKC

Caldwell climbs 9a trad pitch on El Cap

© Climbing.com

Mescalito/Dawn Wall project topo  © Climbing.com
Mescalito/Dawn Wall project topo
© Climbing.com

Tommy Caldwell has managed to free what could be the hardest pitch of the Mescalito/Dawn wall project on El Cap, Yosemite.

The pitch in question is #15, the second traverse pitch, and according to Tommy it weighs in around 14d/9a. This means it's the hardest single pitch in the valley, and also by all likelihood the hardest traditionally protected route in this part of the universe.

On Instagram, Tommy writes:

...I regret to inform anyone that wants to climb the hardest pitch in Yosemite, now they have to get to the absolute middle of Cap to make it happen.
After years of work PITCH 15 WENT DOWN!!!

Pro Climbers International posted that

...this [...] represents a huge step toward an eventual send of the entire route. "

If we're talking about freeing all the single pitches, this is of course true, but if we by "sending the entire route" mean climbing all the pitches in one single push, surely that will be a while still, don't you think?

If I read Kevin Jorgeson's hand drawn topo correctly, there are four or five pitches of ~8b+ - 8c+, as well as a few ~8a+'s, which have to be climbed before you even get to the 9a pitch. After this follows the pitch with the huge sideways dyno (2,4m?), before you reach easier terrain in the form of a few ~8a+ pitches...

When (if?) this project gets done, arguing against this being the single most impressive climbing achievement of all time, and by a long way, will be rather difficult.


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18 Dec, 2013
This news is only about an hour old, and its almost disappeared off your front page. Sounds like it should be getting more prominence, ah stuff it! Got nowt to do with UKC, happening on t'other side of the World. Who says we're not an island nation, respect!
18 Dec, 2013
Are you thinking of having a go when you're over there? :-) To be honest I didn't realise he hadn't done all of the pitches individually, just that he hadn't been able to do them in a hit.
18 Dec, 2013
Yeah, probably go and kick the tyres of it, call it an eliminate, and go hunt out a tasty VS :-)
18 Dec, 2013
I think he has done all the moves not all the pitches. The project is truely mad in scale and difficulty so good on him for banging away with real prospects of completion.
18 Dec, 2013
I'm in awe of what Tommy Caldwell does and this is no different. It's easy to forget, in the world that has had a 9a onsight (or two) and with 9b+ as an excepted current upper limit, that 9a is a serious achievement for anyone. (I think Gresh climbed 8c recently and I'm totally impressed with that) 9a half way up that project is astonishing, astonishing!
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