UKC

VIDEO teaser: SO HIGH - Romain Desgranges climbing highballs

© Jaouad Jordan

Romain Desgranges is one of those competitors who is almost always very close to top. Always reaching the final, sometimes the podium, but with one brilliant exception*, never victorious.

*Romain became European Champion in his home town Chamonix, France in 2013. The whole town partied all through the night. Legendary stuff.

Romain Desgranges at Joshua Tree  © Jaouad Jordan
Romain Desgranges at Joshua Tree
© Jaouad Jordan

To strengthen his head, defeat his old demons and reach the next level, he tried something different.

Last December I set myself a goal, a mental challenge.
My demons that hinder my climb atop the podium have lead me to the beautiful scenery of Joshua Tree, California.
This is where I found the challenges that allowed me to push my limits. 10 High Ball, 10 boulder between 7 and 12m high, these latter are symbols of beauty, difficulty and danger.

The mental and physical engament must be controlled perfectly to combat these demons that affect my concentration...
At what point will I wake up those fears, how will I overcome them in this environment where success will no longer be an option, but the only solution?

This adventure was realized and turned into SO HIGH!

SO HIGH, will premiere on Friday, June 26 at the Cinema Vox in Chamonix.

Whether this is the best recipe to gain mental strength remains to be seen, but his physical shape is certainly better than ever.

Recently, after working Chilam balam, ~9b, for three days, he fell twice(!) within five moves from the top. Remember this route is 400 moves long and takes 50-55 min to climb. To make things even worse, it finishes with a delicate slab section.
Heart breaking to say the least...

Here is the trailer:

Romain Desgranges is sponsored by: adidas, Beal, La SportivaCrosscall, Expression Holds and Snap


This post has been read 8,568 times

Return to Latest News


5 May, 2015
His problem, clearly, is that he's only "300% dedicated to climbing." Surely any fool knows that unless you're at least 400% dedicated you're wasting your time even bothering. Incidentally, that totem boulder looks ace!
8 May, 2015
I'm not so sure John. If 100% dedication means all your time is spent climbing or training then 300% is three times that. By my calculations that works out at a whopping 72 hours a day! Seven days per week. Or maybe it's just 24 hours a day, 21 days per week. Either way that's hardcore. Jan Hojer only trains 14 hours a week and won the World Cup without the need for hyberbolic percentage clichés.
8 May, 2015
Very good point. He's already been training all year and it's still only May.
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email