UKC

Jonathan Siegrist climbs Le Cadre Nouvelle version, 9aVideo

© Siegrist coll.

Jonathan Siegrist on Le Cadre nouvelle version, 9a, Céüse, France  © Siegrist coll.
Jonathan Siegrist on Le Cadre nouvelle version, 9a, Céüse, France
© Siegrist coll.

Last year Jonathan Siegrist repeated Chris Sharma's über classic Biographie, 9a+, at Céüse. In May this year he went to battle again on the same crag. This time against Le Cadre nouvelle version, 9a. This version avoids the chipped holds on Le Cadre, 8c, by climbing a slightly different line.

Here's how Jonathan describes the route:

It has a little taste of everything, some sections suited me really well and others were very demanding. A classic power move (just below the one pictured), kept me coming back again and again. I'm not a dynamic or snappy climber - it's one of my glaring weaknesses - but the move was a brilliant challenge. From hanging it became easy, from just a few moves in it often felt impossible. This kind of movement, so low percentage and unpredictable, can resist for weeks. The first time I stuck the move from the ground was on Wednesday and thankfully I punched it to the finish.

 

Jonathan Siegrist is sponsored by: Arc'teryx, Climb On, Epic TV, La Sportiva, Maxim ropes, Metolius and Smith optics


This post has been read 6,342 times

Return to Latest News


27 Jun, 2015
Good one Jonno. Anyone know - is it as hard as rainshadow or do different places grade softer?
27 Jun, 2015
Hard to say, can't imagine there are many people who have done both. Probably not a world apart though, Ceuse is fairly old school in it's grading as is malham. Top notch video by the way.
28 Jun, 2015
It's interesting that there are two versions: chipped and unchipped. Is this to give climbers a choice of route or just that no one got round to filling in the chipped holds yet I wonder? Do chipped holds ever get filled in, in France?
28 Jun, 2015
What a cracking video - everything was done so well. Lovely editing, decent unobtrusive music and beautiful climbing & scenery. More please!
28 Jun, 2015
crappy annoying jumpy editing
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email