Emma Twyford has flashed and consequently made the third ascent of James McHaffie's recent new route (UKC News Report) Gravity Wave (E8 6c) E8 6c at Trearddur Bay - the day after returning from a productive trad trip to South Africa.
© Pete Robins
Emma told UKC:
"Just before I left for South Africa, Caff put up a new route at Trearddur called Gravity Wave (E8 6c). Whilst in South Africa Pete and I made plans to go and climb it the day after I got back. On arrival Pete decided to work it on lead placing the gear as he went, whilst he was climbing I got the crazy idea in my head that at 7c+ this route was potentially flashable even though I was cold and there is no real warm up down there.
"The climbing went surprisingly well and I made it through the powerful crux; though without chalk on the holds and Pete's beta this would have been very hard. The upper wall was more about keeping calm and recovering on flat jugs - I think I trusted maybe one of the cams I'd placed in the upper head wall as they were very shallow with long whipper potential if they did rip."
Regarding the quality of the line, Emma told UKC: "It's a cool route that I'm sure will get many more ascents over the coming months!" Pete went on to make the fourth ascent shortly afterwards.
Emma's form seemed to run over from her trip to South Africa, returning with an impressive ticklist of hard onsights. She was selected to take part in the BMC trad exchange, and sampled a mix of both single and multipitch climbs. Emma commented:
"I would go so far as to say this is some of the best trad climbing I have ever done in my life and would highly recommend it for anyone contemplating a trad trip. For me this trip was about climbing as many routes as possible though by the end my feet were in agony.
© Ben Heason
"The other part to this trip was meeting our delightful South African hosts and I am hoping that they will enjoy the UK as much as we enjoyed South Africa. I'm already looking forward to the idea of a return trip as there is so much potential out there, though be prepared to get fit with the walk-ins!"
She added:
"My favourite climbing area was Tafleberg. Sleeping in a cave under the beautiful stars and getting up to do some amazing multi-pitch climbing with every route being 5 stars - it truly was an unforgettable experience."
© Julia Wakeling
Emma's ticklist (onsight unless stated)
Out to Lunch (24) (24) (E4)
Russian Roulette (21) (E1)
No longer at Ease (25) (25) (E5)
Celestial Journey (22) (23) (E3)
Red Rain (26) (26) flash (E6)
Wolfgang (22) (22) (E2)
No match for climb id:133230,"Energy Crisis" (20) (HVS)
Iron Maiden (23) (E3)
Blue Planet Direct (25) (25 but more like 26) (E6)
Echoes and Shadows (25) (25) flash (E5)
Woodrow (18) (S)
Fantastic Time (23) (23) (E3)
Blue Moon (hard 25) (E5)
Waterval Boven (onsight unless stated)
The Day Of The Triffids (19) (19) (6a+)
Toolbox (21) (21) 6b+
Freak On (24) (24) (7a)
Sweet Plumb (25) (25) (7a+)
Monster (29) (29) (7c+)
Snapdragon (29) (29) 2nd go (7c+)
Lotter's Desire (27) (27) 2nd go (7b+)
Jack Of All Trades (30) (30) 2nd go (8a)
Eraserhead (28) (7c)
Jambo (25) (25) (7a+)
Flambeau (23) (23) (6c+)
Heart Of China (23) (23) (E3)
Bikini Red (27) (27) (6c+)
Rock Chuka Chick (23) (23) (6c+)
Urisk The Rustic Brownie (6c+) (23) (6c+)
Endless Summer (22) (22) (6c)
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