UKC

Fourth Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Innsbruck

© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Shauna Coxsey returned to form at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria this weekend - winning her fourth Gold of the season out of the five rounds so far and advancing her lead in the rankings by over 100 points, putting her in a strong position for the overall title with just two rounds to go.

Shauna Coxsey is en route for Tokyo 2020.  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Shauna Coxsey is en route for Tokyo 2020.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The GB Team performed well as a whole, with a notable achievement for Nathan Phillips, who qualified in 2nd place for the semi-finals in a round which proved tough for even the most seasoned competitors. Leah Crane finished 15th, Michaela Tracy 17th and Tara Hayes 43rd in her first World Cup of the season. Dave Barrans finished in a commendable 12th place - his best result of the season so far. Nathan ended the semi-final round in 17th, ahead of Tyler Landman in 33rd and Billy Ridal in 41st out of a large field of over 100 competitors.

With the addition of Megan Mascarenas (USA) and Janja Garnbret (SLO) competing in this round, the women's final arguably consisted of the strongest lineup of climbers so far, with former overall World Cup winners Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) and Anna Stöhr (AUT) also in the running. Following her 9th place in Mumbai last weekend - where hot and humid conditions proved challenging - Shauna more than made up for the slight blip in her winning streak, flashing three of the four problems with ease. 17 year-old Janja and 18 year-old Miho Nonaka (JPN) - winner in Mumbai - weren't too far behind in 2nd and 3rd place, with Janja requiring just two more attempts than Shauna to climb all four problems and Miho five more attempts. Megan Mascarenas appeared to be Shauna's main competition up until the third boulder - having smoothly flashed the first two - until she failed to complete the final two problems.

Men's Podium: Narasaki, Chon, McColl  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Men's Podium: Narasaki, Chon, McColl
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the men's final, Jongwon Chon (KOR) stunned the crowd by completing three out of four boulders in an incredibly tough round. Winner in Mumbai, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), came 2nd with two problems completed and Sean McColl (CAN) managed third place with just one top. Triple dynos, technical slabs and tricky volumes set the tone of a round requiring exceptional balance and coordination. Tomoa currently leads the men's overall ranking by a mere nine points, ahead of Kokoro Fujii (JPN) and Alexey Rubtsov (RUS).

Jongwon Chon suitably happy with an outstanding performance on P1  © Eddie Fowke/IFSC
Jongwon Chon suitably happy with an outstanding performance on P1
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

The next round is in Vail, Colorado on 11th/12th June.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2016

Boulder Men

RankNameNationSemi-FinalFinal
1 Jongwon Chon KOR4t8 4b73t4 3b4
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN2t2 4b52t9 4b13
3 Sean McColl CAN4t5 4b51t3 2b4
4 Rolands Rugens LAT2t2 4b61t3 2b8
5 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS3t5 4b70t 2b10
6 Martin Stranik CZE2t2 4b40t 0b
7 Manuel Cornu FRA2t3 4b5
8 Thomas Caleyron FRA2t4 3b6
9 Mickael Mawem FRA2t4 3b8
10 Kokoro Fujii JPN2t5 4b5
11 Alban Levier FRA2t5 4b7
12 Dave Barrans GBR2t5 3b3
13 Stefan Scarperi ITA2t6 4b9
14 Jernej Kruder SLO1t1 4b4
15 Gabriele Moroni ITA1t1 4b5
16 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS1t1 4b10
17 Michael Piccolruaz ITA1t1 3b3
17 Nathan Phillips GBR1t1 3b3
19 Kipras Baltrunas LTU1t1 2b2
20 Andre Difelice CAN1t2 4b7
33 Tyler Landman GBRQual: 4t5 5b6
41 Billy Ridal GBRQual: 1t1 3b7

Boulder Women

RankNameNationSemi-FinalFinal
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR4t8 4b84t8 4b8
2 Janja Garnbret SLO4t7 4b74t10 4b9
3 Miho Nonaka JPN4t6 4b54t13 4b10
4 Megan Mascarenas USA4t6 4b62t2 3b3
5 Anna Stöhr AUT4t8 4b82t11 4b8
6 Akiyo Noguchi JPN4t4 4b41t3 2b2
7 Sol Sa KOR4t6 4b60t 3b3
8 Melissa Le Neve FRA3t3 4b4
9 Staša Gejo SRB3t4 4b5
10 Jessica Pilz AUT3t7 4b8
11 Katharina Posch AUT3t8 3b7
12 Monika Retschy GER3t10 4b9
13 Berit Schwaiger AUT2t2 4b6
13 Petra Klingler SUI2t2 4b6
15 Leah Crane GBR2t4 4b5
16 Katharina Saurwein AUT2t4 4b7
17 Michaela Tracy GBR2t5 4b7
18 Tjasa Slemensek SLO2t7 3b9
19 Alannah Yip CAN1t1 4b5
20 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS1t3 4b12
20 Olaf Herrenkind GER1t3 4b12
43 Tara Hayes GBRQual: 2t3 4b8

Watch the highlights from the finals below:


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23 May, 2016
Brilliant - really impressive
23 May, 2016
Great effort by Shauna and certainly the toughest round so far: all the top women where there and it's worth saying that Shauna only just made it into the finals in joint last place with Anna. It will be hard to catch her now in the overall, but not impossible. Also great to see Dave Barrans doing so well. Shame he doesn't do the full circuit. Vail is likely to be pretty tough too with Mascarenas, Alex Puccio and other strong US females. Not sure if Janja will be there.
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