UKC

Kilian Jornet abandons Everest Attempt

© S. A. Stanier

Spanish mountain runner and endurance athlete Kilian Jornet and his team have abandoned a speed record attempt on Everest's North face due to poor weather conditions. Kilian's goal was to climb the world's highest mountain as the culmination of his Summits of my Life project, in which he is attempting to set ascent and descent records for some of the world's most iconic mountains.

Kilian Jornet  © Suunto
Kilian Jornet
© Suunto

Reporting the news via a voice recording on his Facebook page, Kilian commented:

'There's a little bit of frustration because we are in good shape and well acclimatised, but the weather and the conditions are very dangerous. We've learnt a lot about the mountain and how to come back in the future.'

Conditions had reportedly been ideal at the beginning of the trip, but the team - composed of alpinists Jordi Tosas and Jordi Corominas, and cameramen and mountain guides Sébastien Montaz-Rosset and Vivian Bruchez - were not yet acclimatised. Three weeks into the expedition, the decision was made not to attempt the mountain due to the increased snowfall and avalanche risk.

Everest North Face reflected in the lake below base camp.   © S. A. Stanier
Everest North Face reflected in the lake below base camp.
sstanier, May 2005
© S. A. Stanier

Kilian has so far completed five of the seven mountains on his list - the Innominata ridge traverse of Mont Blanc from Courmayeur to Chamonix in 2012 (UKC News Report), Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn in 2013 and Mount McKinley (UKC News Report) and Aconcagua (UKC News Report) in 2014. Only Mount Elbrus and Everest remain.

Kilian's Summits of My Life records:

  • Innominata Ridge, Mont Blanc - 8 hours 43 minutes (Courmayeur - Chamonix)
  • Mont Blanc - 4 hours 57 minutes
  • Matterhorn - 2 hours 52 minutes
  • Mount McKinley - 11 hours 40 minutes
  • Aconcagua - 12 hours 49 minutes

Watch some footage of Kilian on the Matterhorn below:

Visit Kilian's Summits of My Life blog.


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I define myself as a lover of mountains. I like competing, but, above all, I conceive sport as a way to discover landscapes both inside and outside you.

Kilian's Athlete Page 13 posts 2 videos



16 Sep, 2016
The attached video of his descent from the Matterhorn is terrifying!
16 Sep, 2016
Choosing post monsoon to attempt this seemed a little optimistic, lots of wading, trail breaking, alone at 8000m, after jogging up from the Rongbuk seemed bonkers. The North face is a tad more serious than everyone of those previous records, the voi normales of Denali and Aconcagua are hardly preparation for a solo mission up the Hornbien couloir! glad to hear that common sense prevailed.
16 Sep, 2016
Wow he was ripping down!
16 Sep, 2016
A climbing website really shouldn't be referring to Denali as McKinley.
16 Sep, 2016
I got the impression that he didn't want to be there with hordes of other people. Not a problem getting past people on Aconcagua or Denali, but it would be getting up to the North Col.
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