News for August 2008

Interestingly, Gaz's left hand exit, Bonnie V11/8a remains unrepeated, despite attempts from various climbers.

Want more North Wales Bouldering News? Visit: www.northwalesbouldering.com

Chris takes up the story:

"It all started on 17th August 1968 with Leaning Buttress Crack and April Crack and finished yesterday with Old Smoothie - 1000 routes on Stanage (see chris on Old Smoothie here).

Forty years to do 1,000 routes is slow going, but you can't rush these things.

Dave Spencer and Brian Rossiter were partners for the final half a dozen and Sherri Davy turned up with a bottle of bubbly as we were about to start number 1,000 - which was nice.

By my calculations there are 1,415 routes in the current BMC definitive guide so that should pass on the next few years nicely! "

Congratulations Chris and best of luck with the rest.

Five other lucky winners who will each receive a copy of climbing: 09 when it hits the shelves later in the autumn were also pulled from the hat:

Ray Lindley, Rich Griffiths, Paul Johnson, Ben Gilbert and Will Wykes.

UKC Top Gun, Rob Stone, also deserves a special mention having submitted the first correct answer to all six quiz questions in a little over ten minutes of the competition being uploaded to UKC! Top marks for speed Rob; can't fault you on your clear addiction to UKC!

The competition, which was really well received/subscribed, is an exciting departure on the calendar and one which is hoped to become a regular feature. More than one (no names...) entrant cunningly tried to smooth-talk their way into the home straight by front-loading their emailed answers by offering unsolicited (though gratefully received...) positive feedback on the comp as well as the recent calendars and imagery thereon. However, it was all to no avail as the winners were all pulled from a proverbial competition hat - in this case a light blue Tupperware lunch box. So a big thanks for all the interest and support; much appreciated. By way of consolation all the other entrants will get an email with 'early bird offer' for climbing:09 along with the offer of in-depth counselling having been a mere cheesy wafer away from the top prize!

Planning photo shoots is a tricky business and, in order to hit the ground running, location scouts have already been dispatched and a beau temp requisition submitted in advance of the photo shoot with Rachael. All other things being equal, the photo shoot will happen over the next couple of weeks so watch out for a report on the shoot (spandex and all...) on UKC in the early autumn.

Meanwhile I'm off now to find my Troll tights; I'm not gonna be out-done by Gary Gibson who, as readers/owners of Peak climbing guides from the Eighties will know, was a frequent climbing partner of mine at that time. But remember folks, what's fashionable today WILL look hideous tomorrow as the two shots linked below clearly show. BTW I'm the one attempting the gnarly rock-over on Stanage's much ignored Paranoid, the other shot is an image of two Bens (Moon and Masterson) on Rubicon's Caviar. For more such nostalgic nonsense see my Thirty Years of Pennine Climbing Gallery...

Photos:

• Keith on Paranoid
• Ben Moon and Ben Masterson on Caviar

James commented: "The route is top quality and a real gem of the area - well worth a visit from the mainland! As a French grade I think it would get around 7b/7b+, maybe a touch harder."

The route is described on the Jersey Climbs website:

"A stunning route taking the centre of the deceptively steep West face via a powerful and technical sequence of excellent moves on superb rock. A fall from the second crux would likely end in severe injury on the slab below, or worse if the dubious gear fails sending the climber into the depths of the gully."

More information on this Forum Thread

Representing a touch over 65,000 members and employing 25 full-time staff, the modern BMC gets through about £1.75m a year.

Some of this goes towards running the office. But most of it goes toward the activities that people join us for: keeping crags open, safety and equipment advice, lobbying important people to nip problems in the bud, liability insurance for members, running events, marketing, producing a website and Summit magazine to tell everyone about it.

So where does this million-and-threequarters actually come from? Well, the 2007 Annual Accounts show that last year 59% of the income needed to run the BMC came from membership subscriptions, 30% from trading activities (including travel insurance), and a slim 11% from Sports Council grants.

The figures are healthy. Membership is growing – an 8.4% increase in the last year – probably down to our new membership database starting to generate new marketing possibilities and the recent very successful Direct Debit offer.

Read the full blog entry at: SUMMIT - THE ISSUE

She said: "It's really quite a cool line actually but I know it's not an actual route"

There are several Raven Tor link-ups that get sport grades, and the lines and links start to make sense when you look at the natural features of the crag.

"I had been planning to go off tradding but due to weather and other commitments, found myself stuck in Sheff for a bit. The tor seemed like a good fall back as you can climb in the rain (!) and I hadn't done weedkiller trav before, so did that one afternoon and lacking more inspiration decided to link it into Chimes. I managed to get it done the day before I left Sheff to go away with my family down south." commented Lucy after her ascent.

Earlier in the year (before the disappearance of the famous tree) Lucy also managed an on sight ascent of Body Machine (F7c) at Raven Tor:

"I had been saving it for years and didn't think I had much chance on it, as I'm not as fit as I have been at the mo, but managed to pull it out the bag. What an awesome route! I couldn't believe how good it was and obviously I was really pleased to have onsighted it."

There's over £1,000 worth of Marmot gear up for grabs in this Marmot "On Sight" Film Clip Competition. It's about expressing yourself, sharing your adventures and hopefully entertaining people - whether serious, funny or whimsical!

All the details are: HERE including an:

Exclusive Preview of the Posing Productions film ON SIGHT

The competition is now closed.

Keith will be announcing the winners, five of them, in the next couple of days, with the overall winner going on a photo shoot with Keith and appearing in climbing:09, Keith's climbing calendar for 2009.

The McHaffie/Robins team successfully climbed the first three pitches, which include the famous 'groove' pitch, but then were stopped by the top pitch. After the pair began to struggle with a dangerously placed bolt on the final pitch, Johnny Dawes (who was watching their efforts) shouted down that he may have had a quickdraw pre-placed - making the clip a much safer proposition, not realising how it would be to climb without the pre-placed quickdraw. A few minutes later rain came in and thwarted any further attempts to finish the route. McHaffie had to traverse off through some interesting ground to reach The Wonderful World of Walt Disney a neighbouring E6, which the pair promptly climbed in the rain to escape. With the permission of Dawes they may return and slightly change the position of the bolt.

On the same day, down in Ty'n Tywyn Quarry on the sunny Lleyn Peninsular I head-pointed what is thought to be a first ascent. Ring Of Fire E7 6b (F7b+), takes the overhanging wall right of Burning Bush, breaking right from that route at 10 metres. It is completely reliant on three pegs (of unknown origin) for protection. These won't last forever as the crag is coastal - get on it quick. Such is the quality of the route, it has seen a ground-up repeat from Pete Robins and attempts from several other North Wales activists already and is a bit of a hidden gem.

Robins commented: "It's very good, it should be bolted really so the pegs don't rot away."

What's this small white envelope? Doesn't look like a bill.

Oh my goodness! It has 10 Downing Street written on the back. I must have done something really bad!

But the address says Mick Ryan, UKClimbing.com. Exciting. Have MI5 been monitoring the forums? Too many climbers critical of New Labour?

Inside is a simple white card that says:

"A Reception for the BMC, in celebration of British Mountaineering.

The Prime Minister requests the honour of the company of:

........Mr. Mick Ryan......

at a Reception at 10 Downing Street, Whitehall on Wednesday 8th 2008, from 5.30 pm to 7.00pm"

I immediately start singing, just like Charlie and Grandpa Joe in Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory.

"I've got a golden ticket, I've got a golden twinkle in my eye"

I call up and thank Dave Turnbull BMC CEO, Dave asks if Alan James, owner of UKClimbing.com, has his and then has to dash to a meeting with Sport England.

Alan is on holiday in France and Holland with his family so I call him and give him the news. Alan is very surprised indeed.

I must say we are very honoured. See you on the 8th Gordon Brown, PM.....along with 120 or so climbers and mountaineers.

See the BMC news report A reception for the BMC in 'Celebration of British Mountaineering' at No.10 Downing Street for more details.

Andy Cave (click to enlarge)

As reported at UKClimbing.com (Jun 27: Kendal Mountain Festivals Announce Headline Speakers) the headline speakers are Reinhold Messner, Catherine Destivelle, David Breashears and Steph Davis.

Here's more:

Matt Heason of Heason Events has been appointed programmer for KMFF and Brian Trevelyan (long time poster at UKClimbing.com - BrianT's profile) has been appointed assistant programmer.

David Breashears will be showing his latest Everest IMAX film, a UK premiere.

Dave Gill of Steep Media plans to premiere Call It What You Want about Kendal's own climbing prodigy George Ullrich. We ran two shorts by Dave Gill at UKClimbing.com recently, watch them at a Bachar-Yerian Without Bolts and Less Internet, Less Topos, Less Everything.

Alastair Lee, man of many talents, will be presenting On Sight his much anticipated morality tale of style, ethics and how we really should climb - 'hey no top roping or worse, headpointing, at the back there!' and not only that he'll then educate you with anecdotes from the making of the film.

Andy Cave and Andy Kirkpatrick (UKClimbing.com gear columnist) will be there; Andy to deliver his unique take on life. The other Andy to recount his eventful life. Both of them to explain about their latest books Thin White Line and ...Psychovertical.....not bad for a coal miner from Barnsley and the third best climber ever to come out of Hull

That guy with the wonderful name, Kenton Cool, may be there, and maybe with his new wife, Jazz Black (Slander alert: Cool has climbed Everest far too many times and apart from his cool name his real claim to fame is his friendship with Sir Ranulph Fiennes ).

Question is though. What do you call the Cool and Black now they are married? Kenton Black and Jazz Black, Kenton Cool and Jazz Cool? Or is it the Cool-Blacks that you now have to invite round to your Chamonix pied-à-terre? I'm sure this has been discussed many times.

TICKETS: Tickets for the Kendal Mountain Festivals can be bought online SOON or through Kendal's Brewery Arts box office on 01539 725133.

Thanks to Clive Allen for the word up.

"I'm afraid we have had to cancel this year's DWS festival.

We've literally jumped through more red tape and permit procedures than we ever thought possible and just when everything was looking great, our main sponsor pulled out on us last week without any reason or real explanation. We actually make very little money on the DWS fest, so having this happen at the last minute is a major blow.

The sponsorship agreement was promised back in December and we got told last week, with three weeks to go. We've scrabbled to find another sponsor but it's just too late in the day.

My apologies to absolutely everyone who was getting ready for the weekend. Maybe a smaller, unofficial meet can still happen, but we as a company are unable to get involved."

Later the same day, Marshall and Barbour turned their attention to Thrill Issues of the Jellyman E7 6b, an unrepeated route of Ricky Bell's. Eddie nabbed the second ascent after practice, then Andy Marshall went on to flash the third ascent.

Eddie commented: "Awesome day out. Almost worth the hour and a half walk in!"

Eddie Barbour is sponsored by Podsacs.

Full details and how to apply here: 3 VACANCIES: Beyond Hope..prAna, Metolius, Evolv

This year UKClimbing.com are one of Keith's sponsors, each page has a climbing business as a sponsor of a particular month. It's expensive producing calendars for a small sport such as climbing!

Keith has come up with a great idea. Rather than have some sponsored climbing hero featuring on the UKClimbing.com page, (there will be plenty of famous climbers featured in the calendar), Keith suggested that a climber who can answer some simple questions can be the subject of UKClimbing.com's page in his calendar, climbing:09.

You do have to be an experienced climber. You must lead routes of VD standard and upwards on outdoor crags on a regular basis and your mate must also be a competent climber and belayer. And you must be available mid-late August through early September. Venue: North Wales, the Lake District or the Pennines.

OK, let's have at it. Answer the questions and send them tout de suite to Keith. Closing date is Midnight on Saturday 17th August.

Everything is explained, in detail, here: Keith Sharples - Be in My Calendar Competition

The BMC has submitted a list of people to be invited including senior figures from the mountaineering world and key partner organisations, a number of BMC volunteers, competition climbers, the outdoor media and leading grassroots activists in rock climbing, mountaineering, hill walking, and exploration. Guest numbers are limited so regrettably not everyone can be invited.

Read more on the BMC Website

Climbing competitions: dry tooling, speed, bouldering, and lead comps with over £1,000 in prizes; film festival, talks, beer, party, trade stands, live music, workshops.

Last year Rich Mayfield and Mark Stevenson completed all the 60 routes in Hard Rock in 35 days and finished with a grand party, The Hard Rock Festival. See this video taster: Hard Rock Challenge Film

This year the celebrations continue and again in aid of Mountain Rescue.

Tickets are £5 per day or £15 for the weekend (including camping). If you are looking to camp for the weekend you need to pre book your tickets.

Full details at http://www.hardrockfest.co.uk or http://www.swfilmfest.co.uk

If you require anymore information or wish to buy tickets, please contact Hard Rock Festival II on 01769 572070 or email them at info@rockandrapidadventures.co.uk

DMM are also on the hunt for a customer service representative who is fluent in written and spoken German. You'll be based in Llanberis and your main role will be building strong relationships and identifying new business opportunities within the German speaking countries.

Full details and how to apply here: JOB VACANCY at DMM

Wild Country, based in Tideswell near Buxton in the Peak are looking for a International / Export Sales Co-ordinator. The primary role is to maintain and develop Sales in Export markets

Full details and how to apply here: International / Export Sales Co-ordinator

E grades are designed to be used for an on-sight ascent, but at the very highest levels this is only theoretical. Are the top grades skewed? Does the British grading system fail above E7?

How hard would it be to on-sight E11? Does it matter?

What role does the climbing media play in the push for higher grades? Does the media encourage these stratospheric numbers? Is the media to blame for the grading system getting de-railed?

In these two editorial articles E is for mEdia and The E Grade. Is it broken? Can it be fixed? I have a look at the issues surrounding these questions. I look at alternatives to the E grade and I look at how the media shines in on the big numbers.

Top climber Dave MacLeod also gives me his thoughts on the subject, as well as discussing how he graded Rhapsody E11, and what his thoughts are for Echo Wall.

• Editorial: E is for mEdia

• Editorial: The E Grade. Is it broken? Can it be fixed?

The Northumberland Mountaineering Club have arranged to have the trees at one end of this iconic crag felled.

The work will take place on the 'Dark Side' of Back Bowden Doors (Cockenheugh) over the weekend of the 16th August, barring any complications. Access beyond the fence below On the Rocks will be restricted during the work. Local climbers will be aware how much the trees have encroached up to this end of the crag with some trees towering right over the top of The Dark Side. It is intended to cut the trees right back from the crag to allow the light to reach this excellent wall and hopefully the routes will become popular again.

More information on all things North East on the Climbonline Website

For more info on all BMC news check the BMC News Page

Rob first saw the line 12 years ago, but although inspired by the superb wall and amazing looking prow, he assumed that it was too hard for him. He visited the crag again last year and as no-one else had beaten him to it, thought he might as well have a look for himself.

"I tried the upper section on a shunt and realised that with the right mental attitude it would go. Due to the overhanging nature of the bottom section, I couldn't reach the holds from the rope so had to try them ground-up with the help of bouldering mats. The start of the route is brilliant - around V9 and on slopers, heelhooks and crimps. The next section is about V6; a powerful rockover from a fragile crimp to a sloper, hang this (scary, nearly lost it here), tricky match on a crimp and then a blind grope round the arête to a good rugosity and a long move to lovely flutings."

"Not sure about the grade Highball V9 maybe? Definitely hard E8 for a matless ascent or soft E8 with mats. Whatever grade it's a superb route with superb moves and I had lots of fun trying it."

Ina's Rock is described in the UKC crags database by Andi Turner:

"The amazing geology of the crag is apparent upon arrival. The large overhanging upper section is the cross section of an ancient river bed. The buttress is in two contrasting sections; the lower hard yellow sandstone, the jutting upper bunter pebble bed - awesome! There is no bouldering here at present, but a keen eye and big brush might reveal some good problems and there are certainly some interesting looking craglets scattered in the vicinity. The best routes are Ina's Chimney (S), Inaccessible (E5 6a), Atlas (E2 5c) and Ground Support (E1 5b) with a couple of highball-ish E5's right again on good sandstone. Inaccessible must rank amongst one of the best E5's in the county and undoubtedly the best on this obscure rock type anywhere. The climbing is superb throughout, a real experience and a must-do-tick for anyone capable of this grade."

Rob Mirfin has added another good reason to visit this obscure but wonderful venue.

See an excellent photo of Rob bouldering by Jon Read: UKC Photo

"It was last summer that I started to visit Ben Nevis again with an eye for new routes. In between trying Anubis I wandered around and felt more and more overwhelmed by the possibilities for amazing new routes at all grades. It takes a massive amount of work to climb just one hard route on the 'big bad Ben'. The routes are long and cleaning of loose rock and lichen is hard going on very steep rock. To overcome this feeling, I decided to come back this summer and work only on the best looking line I saw; a huge and unbelievable line which would require many superlatives to do it justice. Everything about it is massive, the line, the exposure, the difficulty, the logistics and the danger. I just came back stiff and sore from 4 days intense work on it, It's clean and the moves are done. But I'm not sure if I will do it. All of the hard climbing (and it is hard!) is unprotected. So now I am back to feeling overwhelmed again. I will try it, but must be ready to walk away if I still feel it is too serious. Much preparation is needed now. The first task is to get my endurance back. Now I am working on hard mountain routes again I am remembering why it is hard to do the 'all rounder' thing. After two weeks of carrying big sacks and racks up mountains, jugging ropes and brushing holds, I have done very little actual climbing. Next time up the Ben I can get down to business though."

Echo Wall has taken almost exactly two years of hard work.

Back in May, Dave was up on the Ben, shirtless, shovelling snow with all his might, so that melt water didn't run down his route - giving him extra days of dry rock in which to work on his project. He soloed Darwin Dixit F8b+/c, a short but fairly serious route in Spain (UKC News) as a psychological training exercise, taking him one step further toward leading Echo Wall. He climbed A Muerte F9a, also in Spain, (UKC News) to confirm his physical level. He used that route as a stepping stone and as a physical yardstick. He then trained specifically for the upside-down rest on Echo Wall on the nearby boulders in Glen Nevis (UKC News).

Dave MacLeod has made the punishing walk up to one of the highest mountain crags in the UK countless times. His fitness is top notch and his dedication is unparalleled. His scientific approach to climbing is in itself quite remarkable. He has left an impact on the UK climbing scene that may not be superseded for decades.

"This thing is just not the same as something like Rhapsody - the climbing on that was quite tricky (at the time it was my limit) but it was right there - easy to sling a rope down in a few minutes and get climbing on it with nothing in the way. I've done the hard mountain routes like Birkett's and Dunne's too, but they were [relative to this] easy climbing - you just turn up, put in a day or two's work and crush it. This is different - the mix of 8c or harder climbing, the prospect of a ground fall on the lead, and the logistical challenge of climbing this so high on the north face of the Ben. That is why it will be another level beyond any of the other routes. That is what I am after on the whole."

The grade of the route is unknown. Perhaps Dave will propose a grade, perhaps he won't. All he has said so far is that it is a grade harder than Rhapsody. The grade can only settle after a route has had several repeats, so I don't think this will be confirmed at E10, 11, 12 or 13 for quite a few years yet.

From Dave MacLeod's blog Dated 30/07/2008

"On Monday night (July 28th) I led my Echo Wall project. I was for me a perfect climbing day. Folk always ask me how doing a degree in sport science helped me do hard routes, expecting to hear about little details about physical training practice. But the biggest thing I learned was about how disparate the ingredients of a good performance are and how big an effect it has on the rare occasions when they come together at just the right moment. Monday was one of those days for me...

...The air was so crisp but it was hot. Kev checked out a big groove, I belayed, time passed. I was waiting for the Katabatic winds of the late evening rolling off the plateau and snowfields just above the route. At 8pm the chill wind gently got going. I waited and waited until the temperature and rock friction was perfect, and at 9pm exactly, all this preparation over months crystallised and I led the route in a dream state of confident execution.

It felt easy, as every hard route I've ever done has – the great paradox!"

• Read more: www.davemacleod.blogspot.com.
• There are more video stills from the route and thoughts from Dave's wife Claire on her blog.

Claire and Dave are producing a film about Dave's climbing exploits that will include Echo Wall.

Dave MacLeod is sponsored by Scarpa, Black Diamond, Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex.

Kozjek had set up a bivy tent somewhere on the mountain near a cornice. Kozjek had emerged from the tent and approached the cornice when he fell down the face. The exact details of the incident are unclear, and there remains hope that in the morning, a rescue attempt will be made.

"There is no doubt he's a good climber," says Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj, "but as a person, he is even better."

Pavle Kozjek is one of the world's most accomplished alpine climbers and has written several pieces for Alpinist Magazine. You can find out more about him and his achievements on the Alpinist Website.

Read more in the full report by Christian Beckwith on Alpinist.com.

Es Tresidder gives us the full low down (with superb photography) in this UKC article:

UKC British Tasermiut Fjord Expedition Report

Adam Ondra has on-sighted an almost vertical F8c, Absinth in Sparchen. "20m of crimping, my style - Soft". He also onsighted Generation Next, 8b+ in Zillertal.

Martina Cufar has done Tom et je ris, 8b+ in Verdon. "The nicest collonette I've ever seen!!!!"

Read a blog post with photo of Martina on the route here: 8a.nu Article

Maja Vidmar who won the last 6 WC comps in 2007 but has been injured this season, is back. During 8 days in France she on-sighted five F8a's and two F8a+'s in Gorges du Loup.

More info on the 8a.nu news page.

More than 15 hours after a large chunk of ice broke off from the mountain and prompted the pre-dawn avalanche, five Austrian and three Swiss climbers had still not been recovered from the slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

Seven other French and Italian climbers were injured when the avalanche swept down the mountain at 3am yesterday, hitting a path often frequented by groups heading for the summit of Mont Blanc, western Europe's highest peak. They were recovering in hospital.

Survivors spokes of a vast tract of ice moving silently but rapidly towards them, giving little time for escape.

"The guide shouted, 'Run fast! Run fast!'," said Nicolas Duquesne, who sustained a broken ankle. "It didn't make any noise. It really was impressive.

"We had just enough time to move away to the right before getting hit ... We were really lucky," said Duquesne, adding that he had to "swim" through the snow to get away. Another survivor, Italian guide Marco Delfini, said he saw "a wall of ice coming towards us and we were carried 200 metres."

Yesterday's disaster was the latest in a deadly season in the Alps. According to figures released last week, almost 100 people died this summer in the French, Italian and Swiss peaks, most of them in the Mont Blanc range.

More at www.guardian.co.uk

German Braun-Elwert was formerly a nuclear physicist who emigrated to New Zealand in 1978. He'd been a guide since 1971 and climbed Cook a reported twenty-six times, and had pioneered many of the country's ski tours. His most noted non-guiding achievements took place in Patagonia, but in the summer of 1973 he made the first ascent of the entire Peuterey Ridge on Mont Blanc.

Read the full report by Lindsay Griffin on the Alpinist Website

Crill and Gallagher free-climbed to the top of a prominent buttress on Hatun Ulloc (aka Ishinca Tower) in the Cordillera Blanca, after establishing the route a year earlier. But a ridge traverse and two-pitch headwall remained unfinished.

Read the full report by Dougald MacDonald on Climbing.com

Watch the video of the ascent from David Anderson:

First Ascent of Hatun Ulloc, Peru from David Anderson on Vimeo.

Cobra Crack

Writes the USA climber Ethan Pringle after completing the third ascent of Canada's Cobra Crack (www.ethanpringle.com):

Cobra Crack first climbed free by Sonnie Trotter two years ago is a perfect finger crack, 30 metres long and situated on the overhanging headwall of the Cirque of the Uncrackables, Squamish Chief. Trotter gave it solid 5.14, around French 8c, and this was confirmed by the Belgium climber Nicolas Favresse who made the second ascent in July this year. (UKC news report)

Trotter describes Cobra Crack as having,

".......huge dynamic throws between one- and two-finger locks; pain is ever-present, and the mental crux is overlooking the pain move after move. The redpoint crux comes over the lip on a slippery side pull; the feet are next to nothing, and it takes momentum and a huge throw to latch the final edge, at which point you're about 15 to 20 feet about your last piece of gear—it's really exciting.”

Ethan Pringle is having a fabulous year climbing. He recently repeated another Canadian testpiece, Sonnie Trotter's The Path 5.14 R (UKC news report) and is making good progress on Chris Sharma's Dream Catcher (5.14d/9a) also at Squamish, which he has been working in tandem with Cobra Crack.

From Dougald MacDonald's Blog:

Of all the things I saw at the Outdoor Retailer show while reporting for the trade show's daily paper, the most surprising was the news that a West Virginia–based team is planning to launch a new climbing magazine this fall. Dead Point Magazine is a glossy bimonthly that will take aim at young climbers, with its first issue slated for October 15. With the tiny climbing market already crowded by four national magazines—Alpinist, Climbing, Rock and Ice, and Urban Climber—and magazine sales generally down, observers must ask: Are these guys smoking crack?

Maybe, maybe not. Dead Point hopes to gain a foothold through free distribution at climbing gyms and retailers, along with a hefty online presence. “We are definitely going after the youth market,” founder Matt Stark told me as we watched the Mammut Bouldering Championships. Stark explained that his magazine would have an “edgy look” and would take more chances with feature stories than the existing magazines do. “We're not going shy away from risqué articles,” he said. “Our second issue is going to turn some heads.”

Read More on Dougald MacDonald's Blog.

UK climbers might want to ask the question: "What happened to Gravity magazine?" The free publication that launched in the UK in 2006 and unfortunately is no longer available. Perhaps the team over at Dead Point should take a look at what happened to Gravity?

The climbing media is a small cake and there are lots of people taking a slice. A lot of questions are being asked behind the scenes in the UK climbing media - Where are we heading? Who will survive? Jobs have been cut and budgets are very slim. Media in general is changing; this year music downloads overtook CD sales for the first time.

A question that many people pose to us at UKClimbing.com is "When are you guys launching a magazine?"

Do you think we should? Or do we have enough printed climbing media out there already?

Two artificial walls were erected above Lake Hammersøen where a number of brave competitors (i.e the water looked a bit chilly) attempted some very challenging lines. The DWS competition was won by the British climber Steve McClure and Robin Vickery of Denmark, both reached the top in the super final. The female final was won by Stine Østergaard of Denmark.

Great Video HERE.

Source: dwsworldblog.blogspot.com

The weird world of Explorersweb reporting.

Explorersweb, a vast website and online store that covers climbing on K2 and Everest as well as polar, ocean and space exploration continues its reporting not just on ascents, success and tragedy, but tabloid-like personal stories, perhaps giving its opinion and insight into the strange world of high altitude climbing and particularly guiding.

Their latest headline story: K2 wrap-up: Americans in ghost BC still hoping to launch a summit push. describes Gheorghe (a.k.a "George") Dijmarescu.

"Gheorghe's name is familiar to readers of the book "High crime" where his Everest commercial outfit is among the featured.

"ExWeb readers might recall the story of violent threats, clients fearing for their lives, oxygen stashes getting robbed, Sherpas demanding money in high camps, porn in mess tents, and a 15 years old Everest summiteer Sherpani slapped by her expedition leader on descent in Camp 2 while a whole bunch of climbers looked the other way. " They continue, " a detailed report about Dijmarescu beating up his 4 time Everest summiteer and Sherpa wife in Base Camp."

Full story: K2 wrap-up: Americans in ghost BC still hoping to launch a summit push.

Last week they debunked the claims of Swedish climber Fredrik Strang who was on K2 when eleven climbers died. Explorersweb reports,

"with heroic tales of himself saving at least ten people single handed, carrying bodies, dead and alive on his back - apparently in record time since a descent from 8000 meters to BC normally requires a day in itself - and that is if you run."

And then Explorersweb make claims that Fredrik Strang's climbing record is partially fabricated.

The full low down can be read here: K2 report: Missing summit pics and no world records - turning the tables on Fredrik Strang

Very odd indeed!

Summit Ridge (click to enlarge)

Their original objective was the unclimbed Batura II (7,762m), but they changed objectives when they discovered a Korean team attempting Batura II.

After a warm-up, acclimatisation climb on Batokshi Peak 6,050 m (alpine style in 9 hours 30 minutes: see video: here) and some bouldering in their base camp, they applied and got a permit to climb Beka Brakai Chhok. Beka Brakai Chhok had been attempted before most recently by New Zealand woman Pat Deavoll (www.patdeavoll.co.nz) and Malcolm Bass (UK) who earlier this year were defeated by snow fall and heavy cloud, and a ," (summit) ridge steep and corniced and the snow becoming more and more unconsolidated to the point we could no longer build anchors."

Simone Moro and Hervè Barmasse took less than 48 hours to climb Beka Brakai Chhok from their Base Camp on the Baltar Glacier.

Moro had this to say about their ascent,

"It's been an infinite ride. In light of the previous attempts on the peak, the climb left us extremely satisfied and reassured about our skills.

Alpinism is not just death, tragedy, survival and heroism.

While we don't expect our climb to get the headlines of Pakistan's 8000ers, we hope it will serve as a reminder to both those passionate about mountaineering and also the general public.

A reminder that mountaineers like us and many others climb mountains to live, to enjoy, to grow. And to accept the verdicts of life and sometimes also of fate; without arguing or lacking respect toward those who share the same value: the value of life. "

Full report with photographs: www.k2climb.net/news

More: Simone Moro's North Face profile
More: Hervè Barmasse North Face profile:

BASE Solo

On August 6, Potter free-soloed the gently overhanging limestone route wearing a five pound BASE jumping rig on his back. He traversed into the climb along a natural ledge that comes off the northwest arête of The Eiger and soloed the final 600 foot headwall with 7b+ (5.12+) crux moves at the top of the formation. Dean opted to bypass the lower pitches because they feature loose rock and, should a fall occur, there would not be time to deploy the BASE chute before encountering a 50-foot ledge that protrudes from the bottom of the climb. Below the ledge, the wall falls away for an additional 2,000 feet, leaving open the option of a 15 second flight from higher on the wall.

Approximate line of Deep Blue Sea.

Dean's climb was filmed by cinematographer Jim Hurst and photographer/mountain guide Beat Kammerlander. The footage will be featured in the upcoming Sender Films release The Sharp End, and as a feature segment on Jeep's World of Adventure Sports airing October 11, 2008 on NBC.

It may be the first time anyone has set out to free solo a route at the edge of their ability with only a B.A.S.E. parachute.

Source: senderfilms.com/blogs

You can watch Dean Base Lining in this video at nytimes.com.

Ian was an experienced climber and was emerging as a talented Alpinist. He had a bright future ahead of him and was about to start a Geography degree at Bangor University this September.

His eternal optimism and complete lack of ego will be a great loss to the climbing community.

Ian will be deeply missed by his family and friends.

Thanks Ian for the last two weeks of great climbing and company out in Cham.

Franco, Will, Luke, Tom, Tom, Felix, Big Ian and Moe

Ian Jackson was a valued member of the UKC community. His loss will be felt. We at UKC offer our condolences to his family and friends in this difficult time.

In Memoriam: Ian Jackson

Zhang Yongze, Tibet's environmental protection chief gives the following reasons:

"We have a responsibility to ensure the water source of the river flowing from Everest to the sea is clean, our target is to keep even more people from abusing Mount Everest."

The western world however, remains unconvinced. This environmental turn-around comes just after the building of a 65 mile tarmac road to Everest base-camp. The road was built to ease the access of the Olympic torch relay, that recently summited Everest. The Chinese government says it also hopes it will ease access for climbers and tourists to the mountain.

"The highway will become the major route for tourists and mountaineers who are crowding onto Mount Qomolangma in ever larger numbers," it said, referring to the mountain by its local name.

The decision to build the road came despite open criticism on environmental grounds. The Free Tibet Campaign have other ideas about the significance of the road, maintaining it has nothing to do with improving accessibility for tourists, but is a means of asserting control over the region.

At the time of the road's construction a Free Tibet Campaign spokesman said: "The permanent metalled road on Mount Qomolangma is an attempt to underscore Beijing's tenuous claims to sovereignty over Tibet. To achieve this aim China will sadly scar irreparably one of the world's most beautiful landscapes as well as tarnishing a mountain sacred not only to Tibetans but to many people living in the Himalayan region."

The building of the road and the government statement suggesting that the road will be “the major route for tourists and mountaineers” flies in the face of the recent closure plans for 2009. However, given the recent fury from the Chinese over the foreign coverage of the riots in Tibet, and the poor reception of the Olympic torch relay in Europe, it isn't difficult to imagine why a severe reduction of entry visas is now on the cards for foreign visitors and press in 2009.

A source from a major UK expedition organisation gives his take on the situation:

“The Chinese say they're welcoming climbers this autumn (for example, to the popular 8000m peak, Cho Oyu), but state you can have no more than two nationalities on a permit. You can't therefore have mixed nationality teams + Nepalese Sherpas. They're saying they may not grant individuals visas anyway, and are talking about a week-long visa process in Kathmandu. A lot of the commercial expedition organisers are now climbing Manaslu in Nepal (the world's 8th highest mountain) instead of Cho Oyu, because they're tired of being messed about by the Chinese. The Chinese seem to be doing everything to keep people out of Tibet, without actually banning entry. Sources inside Tibet are talking about a big crackdown on Tibetans after the games. This recent press release about a clean up operation on the North side of Everest is clearly propaganda. There have been a number of clean up expeditions on the Nepalese side of the Everest. Why would you need to close the mountain? It's obviously a whitewash, but sadly some naive media sources in the outdoor world seem to have fallen for it.”

What is telling is that no outside organisations such as international mountaineering associations or environmental groups have been informed or consulted on the clean-up. There have been multiple clean-up operations organised on both sides of the mountain in the past, although China have never officially been involved. Tonnes of waste have been removed from the mountain by volunteers, who had no need to close the mountain – in fact it needed to be open for them to arrange permits. Closing the mountain will only reduce the amount of experienced volunteer helpers on hand to assist in the clean-up.

It is true that waste is a major issue in the area and of particular concern is the fact that in the freezing temperatures human excrement never breaks down. It is easy to imagine how this could lead to widespread contamination of river water from melting glaciers.

China would do well to publicise any actual plans for the 'clean-up' to the international climbing community and liaise with the various volunteer groups who have experience in this field. More stringent policy regarding waste management for climbers is an essential step forward, but a complete shut down of Tibet, at a time of a huge increase in Chinese nationalism, is pulling the wool over no one's eyes.

The last known survivor of the disastrous ice avalanche on the upper flanks of K2 has descended to base camp.

With the assistance of an American mountaineer and two Sherpas, Italian climber Marco Confortola was able to reach base camp and is currently awaiting helicopter rescue. As soon as weather permits, Confortola will be picked up from base camp and flown to Skardu, Pakistan, where he will receive advanced medical care. He is said to be suffering from extreme frostbite on his feet, like the other survivors of the avalanche.

"Up there it was hell. During the descent, beyond 8000 meters, due to the altitude and the exhaustion I even fell asleep in the snow, and when I woke up I could not figure out where I was," Confortola told his brother Luigi in Italy via satellite phone.

Last weekend Dutch climbers Wilco van Rooijen and Cas van de Gevel were flown to a military hospital in Skardu; they are receiving treatment for their own frostbite.

"Everything was going well to Camp 4 and on summit attempt everything went wrong," van Rooijen reflected. He said that while earlier expeditions had fixed lines through the Bottleneck, they had placed them at incorrect places, making them unsafe. "We were astonished. We had to move [the fixed lines]. That took of course, many, many hours. Some turned back because they did not trust [the lines] anymore," he explained.

Read the full report by Melissa Thomasma on the Alpinist Website

Today, after a rainy night in base camp, I headed down to the empty mess tent to enjoy a quiet breakfast. I quickly got working on starting my now very tired generator, and plugged in all my dead electronics; after receiving countless emails and phone calls from the media, and making very difficult calls to the loved ones of the deceased, my 17.2Amp lead acid battery wasn't quite cutting it. I logged into my email and was again barraged with requests for interviews from the media.

I took a break from the computer, and headed down to Gilkey Memorial to put up the plates we had made to memorialize Hugues, Karim, Gerard, and Baig. It was ironic, as the last time I had gone was with a happy healthy Hugues. I am, however, happy that he in the end, achieved his goal. This was his third year in a row on K2, and finally he had made the summit and lived his dream. It is a shame that triumph and tragedy seem to come hand in hand on K2. After the memorial, I headed back to base camp. I still have my fingers crossed for the Italians, as they are still waiting for the helicopter evacuation from ABC on the Abruzzi Route.

Read the full blog entry at www.nickrice.us

Also of note is this analysis by Freddie Wilkinson at the Huffington Post: Avalanche Triggers Survival Situation on K2

A new route was established last week by Russians Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I (8068m) despite Afanasiev suffering a severe head injury from rockfall. Their alpine-style blitz took four days, from July 29 to August 1, two weeks after their ascent of Broad Peak (more details on the Alpinist Website).

On the night of July 30, their second night on the wall, a rock falling from above ripped through the tent and struck Afanasiev on the head. Babanov spent the remainder of the evening helping his partner control the bleeding. "We thought our climbing was over," Olga Babanova reports her husband saying over satellite phone. "But we cannot descend the same way we came up. It was dangerous." To retreat, the pair was forced to continue to the ridge, but upon reaching it Afanasiev "decided that he had the endurance to go to the summit."

Read the full report by Erik Lambert on the Alpinist Website

An eyewitness says 25 climbers reached the summit on Friday, but nine were stranded and froze to death after an avalanche swept away their fixed ropes.

In the deadliest day in K2's history, another climber fell to his death and a porter died recovering a body. The avalanche happened when a chunk from an ice pillar snapped away on a feature called the Bottleneck.

Swedish climber Fredrick Streng, who had decided not to attempt the summit, gave the BBC details of the events. He said several expeditions, with a total of 25 climbers, had taken advantage of Friday's fine weather to reach the summit of K2. But he said they returned late, and were tired when the avalanche struck out the fixed lines.

"There were still nine climbers above these ropes, which meant they had to spend the whole night out in the open," he said. "The next morning they were still there, not moving. And people during the night had been hit by the avalanche. One had died, one had fallen at an earlier stage.

"At the end of Saturday, 11 people were confirmed dead."

ISLAMABAD (AFP) — At least nine mountaineers died near the summit of K2 when a huge chunk of ice sheared off the mountain and hit them, and several more climbers are missing, Pakistani tour operators said Sunday.

Three South Korean, two Nepali, a Dutch, a Serb, a Norwegian and a Pakistani climbers were among those killed when the disaster struck on the notoriously treacherous Himalayan peak, the world's second highest mountain after Mount Everest.

"I can confirm nine dead and three missing," Nazir Sabir, a celebrated Pakistani climber and chief of Nazir Sabir Expeditions, told AFP. "Three South Koreans, two Nepali, one Dutch, one Serb, one Norwegian and one Pakistani have been killed," said Sabir, who scaled K2 in 1981 and Everest in 2000.

"It is the worst tragedy on K2 since 1986, when 12 climbers were killed due to exposure," he said.

"At least seven climbers are feared dead in an avalanche after scaling the world's second-highest mountain, K2, expedition organisers have said. There are fears more climbers could have died in the accident in northern Pakistan, or still be trapped, but others did reach safety. A chunk from an ice pillar snapped away on Friday and broke ropes on a feature called the Bottleneck, reports said.

There are reports some mountaineers may be stuck above the Bottleneck, unable to descend as the fixed ropes are broken."

A Pakistani tour operator says nine climbers are feared to have died in an avalanche after scaling the world's second-highest mountain, K-2.

Nazir Sabir says 22 climbers, mostly foreigners, reached K-2's summit Saturday but an ice avalanche struck them during their descent.

He says nine of the mountaineers are feared to have died and three others are missing. His Alpine Club of Pakistan organized a Serbian expedition on the mountain.

K2, the world's 2nd highest peak

The reports are getting quite hard to follow. Many of the expeditions involved on K2 are from International countries, and many of those don't speak English. I will try to update the best I can from what I know at this point.

It is being reported that one porter has died. This is in relation to earlier reports that I could not previously confirm. The climbing porter was working with Adventure Tours Pakistan, which also has a french climber that they can not find or get in contact with. His condition is not known at this point, as he is still missing.

Hushe Trek and Tours, who is coordinating the Italian K2 Expedition has one member that has been injured and is requiring rescue attention. Supposedly this member fell in the Bottleneck and has broken an arm or leg. This member is currently being helped down from Camp IV. All other members are accounted for.

Gerard McDonnell, a member of the Dutch International K2 Expedition, is currently missing. He is being listed as living in Alaska, United States.

It is being reported that a third climber has died at Camp IV. There has not been a confirmation on this information–or a mention of who it might be.

Hunza Guides Pakistan is reporting that all members of their Singapore K2 Expedition has been accounted for and they are currently helping in the rescue process.

The Korean Expedition is reporting that all members have been accounted for and all are safe. This expedition is with Blue Sky Trek and Tours.

The Frenchman Hugues d'Auberede is currently missing and unaccounted for.

Marco Confortola and Wilco van Rooijen dug in a bivouac and spent the night at 8,300 meters. It is being listed that their current where-abouts is unknown

Jasmine Tours is reporting on all three of it's current expeditions, including the Norit K2 Expedition, as well as the Sunny Mountain Chogri Expedition and the International K2 Expedition. All members from both of the latter two expeditions are safe and helping in rescue efforts. Three members of the Norit K2 Expedition are currently still trapped above the bottleneck.

More information has come out on the death of Serbian climber Dren Mandic. Mandic died after a fall around Camp IV. His body was found near Camp 3. That would make it a 650 meter fall. His body has been buried near Camp III by his team members, who are now descending to basecamp.

News is still kind of confusing as to who has died and who is still trapped above the bottleneck. I am hearing varied reports of 5 climbers still trapped–7 climbers still trapped–or as many as 12. It is definitely a precarious situation.

It is also being reported that there were injuries resulting from the ice collapse above the bottleneck. At this point with some members still unacounted for, we can only hope for the best in this situation.

Many international teams, climbers and expeditions on K2 are currently involved in trying to rescue those climbers still in the death zone. The weather is currently holding, but the weather will take a big turn come Monday. It is essential that all rescue efforts are concentrated and as much help that can be done, take place before this time period.

Let's keep all members, climbers, rescue workers, Expedition companies and their families in our thoughts and prayers and wish them the best of luck in rescuing the remaining climbers currently trapped or Lost on K2. Very sad.

More reports at : www.everestnews.com, http://news.bbc.co.uk