Nik Jennings has just added a new trad route to Kilnsey. Exodus, graded E8 6c, is a direct finish to the E6 Warlord Direct.
This is potentially one of the hardest trad routes on Northern Limestone... ]]>
Nik Jennings has just added a new trad route to Kilnsey. Exodus, graded E8 6c, is a direct finish to the E6 Warlord Direct.
This is potentially one of the hardest trad routes on Northern Limestone... ]]>
Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson have made the 2nd and 3rd ascents of Dave Graham's The Ice Knife, ~8C, at Guanella Pass, Colorado.
The problem was put up a couple of years ago, but I don't think it has attracted much, if any, traffic until now. This shouldn't be very surprising as 8C's tend to have a somewhat intimidating effect on most people...
After spending one day unsuccessfully trying to locate the boulder, and one day working it, Daniel, Baeu Kahler and Paul, went back after a...]]>
Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen have climbed the three Himalayan Giants; Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse back to back in just three days.
"Dorje and I laughed at the stupidity of our small head-torches beaming into nothing. This is half time only. Back in South Col. Lhotse is on for tonight. Nuptse and Everest are done. We're feeling strong. We're going for it..." ]]>
Devon and Cornwall Police have issued a warning that thieves targeting cars are in operation around the Haytor area of Dartmoor. Several cars have been broken into and had valuables stolen.
Ashburton PCSO, Ben Cattrall, sent out a warning that cars parked in the various secluded parking areas around Haytor on the Eastern side of Dartmoor, Devon, were being broken into. These areas included those close to popular climbing crags such as Haytor & Lowman, Hound Tor, Bench Tor, and...]]>
After placing 2nd at the Log Dragomer world cup, Jan Hojer took his first ever WC victory at Innsbruck last weekend. Most of you will also remember what he did in Ticino and elsewhere, for example his 11 problems in the 8A-8B range in a single day, and his quick repeats of Off the wagon and Momentum, both ~8B+/C.
I wouldn't be surprised if some of you are interested in knowing how this German beast trains.
Well, here is the answer. Prepare to be impressed and don't miss the 1 -...]]>
Kairn reports, Kevin Lopata has made the second ascent, post break, of Le surplomb de la mée assis, ~8B+, Rocher du potala, Fontainebleau.
The problem has become a bit harder since one of the holds was broken, bumping the grade up from 8B to 8B+. Antoine Vandeputte made the first post break ascent in the beginning of April this year.
Kevin, probably the tallest of the strong locals, specialize in crimpers and has repeated problems as hard as 8C (Satan i helvete assis), as well as opening...]]>
First up this week is some stamina training with James Pearson - but don't get too pumped - makes sure you watch THE DOG...! ]]>
On a recent short trip to Catalunya, Spain, Devonshire brothers; Peter and Luke Dawson climbed many hard sport routes including redpoints of up to 8b for 14 year old Team GB member Peter and 8b+ for 16 year old Luke.
Peter's first 8b of the trip was the short and bouldery Le Bombi at Margalef, Peter redpointed the route very quickly in one session after just a few tries for his first ever 8b. Talking on his Blog, Peter reckoned: "It was more like a hard 8a".
Later in the trip, Peter...]]>
Last weekend the 4th round of the 2013 Boulder World Cup took place in Log Dragomer, Slovenia. It was to be a well-attended comp with 65 men and 56 women, including 9 of our very own hopeful athletes.
"...Next it was the ladies turn and with Coxsey, Leslie-Wujastyk and Crane having made it through all qualifying rounds this year we were set to have four Brits in the semis..." ]]>
Since the early sun North Wales experienced in February, we were plunged back into an icy winter that saw many new winter routes and some hard new boulder problems. However, the trad climbing season has started, along with the return of rain... ]]>
Last weekend a strong team comprising of Ed Booth, Angus Kille, Ed and Sam Hamer had a very productive weekend quickly ticking many hard routes at Nesscliffe.
First up on Friday the 3rd May, Ed Booth made the 3rd ascent of Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans, E8 6c, a Nick Dixon route, the only other known ascentionist being Dave Birkett... ]]>
Nalle Hukkataival has made a quick repeat of Fred Nicole's Entlinge, ~8B+, at Murgtal, Switzerland.
Nalle's basecamp is currently in the Averstal/Magic wood, where I guess he and his buddy Dave (Graham) plan to climb everything from 5+ and up.
It's been raining however. A lot.
So, instead of spending another day relaxing, true bromance style at Grand hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites, they escaped to Murgtal.
"We drove to Murg for the day and even though the conditions were very...]]>
Alexander Megos has made a very quick repeat of Markus Bock's Pantera, 9a, at Schneiderloch, Frankenjura.
Alexander certainly doesn't waste any time now that he's on a roll. Only a few days after his repeat of Corona, 9a+, he made a one day ascent of its neighbour Pantera. In fact, he did the route on his first redpoint attempt after having worked through the moves a couple of times.
I know I keep repeating myself, but this guy needs to get off the kindergarten stuff and get on something...]]>
This year, two pairs of Peregrine Falcons have begun nesting within the Avon Gorge, Bristol, which is home to many classic routes that feature in Extreme, Hard and Classic Rock.
UKC user Colin Knowles has recently reported that two pairs of peregrine falcons have been confirmed nesting in the Avon Gorge adding "It is an incredibly rare event for peregrines to nest so close together." ]]>
Wimberry's Last Great Problem falls to Pete Whittaker, whilst Tom Randall gets the 2nd ascent of Appointment with Death (E9 6c) and Nathan Lee makes the 3rd ascent of Order of the Phoenix, (E8 6c) all in the same day.
Saturday the 4th May saw a very impressive day with three big ascents made at Wimberry Rocks in the Chew Valley.
First up, Tom Randall made the second ascent of Appointment with Death (E9 6c). First climbed by Sam Whittaker in 2003, the route has waited ten...]]>