Rob Adie is the BMC Climbing Walls and Competitions Officer and he is going live on the UKC Forums tomorrow! That's Friday the third of September.
"I provide advice about climbing wall related issues and am responsible for organising all the BMC's climbing competitions..." ]]>
Will Atkinson is back doing what he does best, namely, jumping a very long way between very bad holds. On Saturday he repeated Chris Graham's test piece dyno at Kyloe in the woods, the popular sandstone crag in Northumberland.
Catapult weighs in at Font 8A+...]]>
After this weekends' Great Climb, when Dave MacLeod and Tim Emmett successfully climbed a new route on Sron Uladail, there are two more climbing events on the TV this week: Eiger Wall of Death, and Andy K and Karen Darke on the Michael Ball Show.On September 24th the climbing film The Wildest Dream is released starring Leo Houlding and Conrad Anker. ]]>
After three weeks in the Ali Baba cave at Rodellar, success came for Magnus Midtbø in the form of Ali Hulk extension sit start, Dani Andrada's 85 move upside down wrestling match of a 9b.
The route can be divided into two parts. The first is 8c+ or 9a in it's own right and takes you to a knee-bar. This part can be climbed without a rope. From there you got ~15m of 8c+ to the chains.
There aren't that many 9b's in the world, only eight or so, and this is the 2nd one, after Chris Sharma's Golpe...]]>
Pierre Délas, from Kairn, has made an interview with Magnus Midtbø, who has made the 2nd ascent of Ali-Hulk sit start extension, 9b.
What was the hardest thing for you to manage to succeed on the route?
There was a lot of hard things about this route. One of the thing was that I was working it alone the whole time, so I had to figure out all the beta myself. And for the first part you cant clip in anywhere, so you have to climb it from the beginning every time. Very tiring! 86 moves and...]]>
Unfortunately there was no live streaming from Chuncheon, so the only thing I can provide at this point is the results of the men's final, where the Spaniard's made a great come-back after last week's not-so-great result at Xining.
Patxi Usobiaga won ahead of Ramón Julian, Sachi Amma and Adam Ondra, who all reached the same point in the final, thus separated only by the results in the previous heats.
Among the women, Jain Kim was in a class of her own in front of her home crowd, reaching 9...]]>
Dave MacLeod and Tim Emmett successfully climbed a new route on Sron Uladail, Harris on Saturday that was broadcast live on BBC Scotland and Sky channel 990.
Despite rain, wet rock and Dave's injured ankle, the pair successfully completed the very steep five pitch route now known as, The Usual Suspects E9 7a.]]>
Adrian Baxter has redpointed the stunning sport route of Ironman (F8c) in Rodellar in the Huesca province of Aragon, Spain.
"I've been having a total blast over the last two months climbing in Spain and Ironman was really the culmination of the trip for me..." ]]>
Over the last few weeks Dave MacLeod and Tim Emmett have been preparing for a first ascent on the mighty cliff of Sron Uladail, Harris.
But this first ascent will be slightly different to most. This coming Saturday Dave and Tim will attempt the new route - accompanied by a BBC production team, and their ascent will be broadcast live on TV. ]]>
Those of you who have been following this year's competition scene may have noticed one man's name cropping up time and again. Stew Watson.
Stew is currently the UK's top competition climber, with a string of fantastic results in the 2010 bouldering world cup which placed him in sixth place overall.
That's sixth in the world... ]]>
Just thought I should confirm things went according to (my) plan.
As predicted, Paul Robinson made the second ascent of Fred Nicole's Monkey wedding, 8C, commenting on 27 crags, "climbing Monkey Wedding was a huge mental and physical struggle for me. I feel like it marks my second hardest send I have ever completed [after his own Lucid dreaming] and I'm beyond psyched to have the second ascent on one of Fred Nicole's hardest lines in the world. Props to Fred on an amazing first...]]>
Kairn, who's talked to Belgian boulderer, Olivier Mignon, has the lowdown on the major sends at Magic Wood this summer.
Zach Lerner made the 3rd ascent, after Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada, of Remembrance of things past, 8B+, in the darkness cave.
In the same cave Olivier Mignon made the 2nd ascent of Anthony Gullsten's recently put up Dark sakai, 8B. He also did One summer in paradise, 8B (the longer version of Pura vida). Sean McColl did the same, dispatching it second go. It should be...]]>
British climber Dave Gater is on a European bouldering tour. Dave specialises in dynos and he has made a string of nifty first ascents on his tour so far.
"I don't think I have ever seen anyone more naturally talented at the one move wonder than him..." ]]>
Young Belgian climber Chloé Graftiaux has been killed in an accident on l'Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc, France.
Graftiaux, a top level athlete in several disciplines, had won both an Ice Climbing World Cup and the Bouldering World Cup in 2010. ]]>
Magnus Midtbø is on a roll and lately, nothing seems to be able to stop the young Norwegian. At least nothing at Rodellar.
After a bunch of 8b onsights and the redpoint of Ali-Hulk, 9a, Magnus raised the bar even further this week-end, redpointing Ali-Hulk extension, 9a, and onsighting Pequena estrella, 8b+, for his hardest onsight ever.
Next on the agenda is the sit start to Ali-Hulk extension, which weighs in around 9b.
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